Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [182]
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SLEEPING
Ayuthaya has numerous soulless tourist hotels and a few charismatic little guesthouses and midrange places.
Iudia ( 0 3532 3208; www.iudia.com; 11-12 Th U Thong; r 1800-4500B; ) Opened mid-2009, this delightful little boutique hotel in a removed riverfront locale has raised the standard in this city, and far. The eight luxuriously appointed rooms occupy a modern, highly designed building in Thai and Middle Eastern themes, all overlooking Wat Puthai Sawan. There’s a riverside pool, chic coffee shop and good service. Book ahead.
Luang Chumni Village ( 0 3532 2990; www.luangchumnivillage.com; Soi Chokesetti; r 640-960B; ) On a quiet soi in the centre of town, these old wooden houses have been converted into six rooms while maintaining their classic Thai architectural integrity. That means the modern bathrooms are connected, but are downstairs from the compact all-teak rooms. It’s the real Thai deal, and the setting is lovely.
Bannkunpra ( 0 3524 1978; www.bannkunpra.com; 48 Th U Thong; dm/s 250/300B, d 400-800B; ) Overlooking the river, this genteel old teak house is one of the most atmospheric, romantic places in town, filled with historic photos, old books, centuries-old swords and a vintage typewriter. The breezy location is ideal and most of the 15 rooms have four-poster beds, though only five have their own bathrooms; we liked room 1 best. Service is just right and it’s all amazing value.
Tony’s Place ( 0 3525 2578; Soi 8, Th Naresuan; d 200-700B; ) Long-running Tony’s is a sprawling establishment with an energetic party atmosphere and busy patio restaurant and bar. It might not be the ‘True Thai Experience’, but the 35 rooms in three wooden houses are dependable; ask to see a few. Wi-fi is free.
Baan Lotus Guest House ( 0 3525 1988; 20 Th Pamaphrao; r 200-600B; ) Around the corner from Soi 8, the tall wooden house and newer building here contain 23 spotless, airy and good-value rooms. The main appeal, however, is the two elderly sisters who run the place – they are great conversationalists and can’t do enough for you. Book ahead.
Old Place Guest House ( 0 3521 1161; www.theoldplaceguesthouse.com; 102 Th U Thong; r 350-600B; ) There are better rooms in Ayuthaya, but this budget joint has a fantastic location under a tree on the river. Just make sure you get a room away from the road.
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KO KRET
Bangkok’s closest green getaway is this artificial ‘island’, the result of a canal being dug nearly 300 years ago to shorten an oxbow bend in the Chao Phraya. Today Ko Kret is known for its hand-thrown terracotta pots, which are sold at markets throughout Bangkok, and its food. This island and the pottery tradition date back to one of Thailand’s oldest settlements of Mon people, who were a dominant tribe of central Thailand between the 6th and 10th centuries AD. From Wat Paramai Yikawat (Wat Mon), which has an interesting Mon-style marble Buddha, go in either direction to find working pottery centres on the east and north coasts.
Even more prevalent than pottery is food. At weekends droves of Thais flock to Ko Kret to munch on deep-fried savouries, kôw châa (a Mon dish combining savoury/sweet titbits and chilled rice) and iced coffee.
Baan Dvara Prateep ( 0 2373 6457; www.baandvaraprateep.com; 53/3 Moo 5, Ko Kret) offers multiday yoga and meditation retreats in a traditional wooden house on the west coast of the island, but only takes group bookings.
The most convenient way to get to Ko Kret is by taxi or bus (bus 33 from Sanam Luang) to Pak Kret, before boarding the cross-river ferry from Wat Sanam Neua. Going by river is more scenic; on Sundays you can join a busy weekend tour operated by Chao Phraya Express ( 0 2623 6001; www.chaophrayaboat.co.th; child/adult 250/300B; 10am-4.45pm Sat & Sun), departing from Tha Sathon and Tha Mahathat; or take a regular express boat to Nonthaburi