Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [184]
Immediately to the south is the prom queen of the bunch: Ao Wong Deuan, whose graceful stretch of sand is home to an entourage of sardine-packed sun-worshippers, screaming jet skis and honky-tonk bars akin to those in Pattaya (with a similar clientele).
Thai college kids claim Ao Thian (Candlelight Beach) for all-night guitar jam sessions and if you’re on a tight budget this beach (as well as Naga Bungalows on Ao Hin Khok) are your best bets. Further south is a castaway’s dream of near-empty beaches and gentle surf, and the starting point for languid walks to the western side of the island to see fiery sunsets.
* * *
TRANSPORT: KO SAMET
Distance from Bangkok 200km
Direction Southeast
Travel Time Four hours
Bus The fastest way to reach Ko Samet by public transport is actually the most round-about: bus to Rayong, sǒrng·tăa·ou to Ban Phe and boat to the island. Buses directly to Ban Phe (157B) – the pier for ferries to Ko Samet – leave from Bangkok as well, but the travel time is slower. Air-con buses to Rayong (140B, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes from 5am to 9.30pm) leave Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai; Map). From Rayong bus station (or wherever you’re dropped), take a sǒrng·tăa·ou (20B, 30 minutes, every 15 minutes) to Ban Phe. Guesthouses around Th Khao San often arrange transport that costs more but is more convenient, although not necessarily faster.
Taxi Of course, you could just ditch the bus and take a taxi; almost any Bangkok taxi will be happy to take your 2500B for the two-hour trip down, assuming they have enough time left on their shift (mornings are good). From Suvarnabhumi Airport it’s about 2300B; these prices are negotiable, and much cheaper coming back.
Boat Boats to Ko Samet leave from Ban Phe’s many piers; be sure to buy tickets directly from a boat office at the pier. Most boats go to Na Dan Pier (return 100B, 30 to 45 minutes each way), but there are also boats to Ao Wong Deuan (return 120B, every 2 hours from 10.30am to 4.30pm) and other beaches in high season. Boat schedules vary depending on the season, so prepare to wait an hour or more unless it’s very busy, when boats run more frequently. You can also charter a speedboat (1100B to 2000B depending on demand).
* * *
The only developed beach on the steeper western side of the island is Ao Phrao (Coconut Beach), which hosts three upmarket resorts and moonlights as ‘Paradise Beach’ to those escaping winter climates.
Along the oft-overlooked northern shore are Ao Noi Na and Ao Klang, which have several decent midrange resorts and guesthouses.
Return to beginning of chapter
INFORMATION
There are ATMs near Malibu Garden Resort on Hat Sai Kaew, at the 108 Minimart and near the tourist police on Hat Wong Deuan, and at the 7-Eleven in Na Dan.
Ko Samet Health Centre ( 0 3861 2999; btwn Hat Sai Kaew & Na Dan; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun) Small public clinic with English-speaking doctors for minor health problems.
National Park main office (Hat Sai Kaew; admission child/adult 100/200B; sunrise-sunset) There’s another office on Ao Wong Deuan; wherever you arrive a ranger will find you to charge the fee.
Post office (at Naga Bungalows, Ao Hin Khok; 8.30am-8.30pm daily) Stamps, poste restante and advice in the internet cafe cum information office.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Every hotel and guesthouse has a restaurant and choosing one is as difficult as a walk along the beach inspecting menus along the way. There are several food stalls along the main drag between Na Dan pier and Hat Sai Kaew, and it’s worth looking out for the nightly beach barbecues, particularly along Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai.
Ao Lung Wan Restaurant (Ao Cho; dishes 80-150B; 8am-10pm) Low-key without being shabby, this restaurant serves a large menu of tasty, inexpensive Thai dishes in a quiet beachfront location.