Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [185]
Baywatch Bar ( 0818 267 834; Ao Wong Deuan; dishes 190-290B; 8-2am) Pam Anderson is nowhere to be found but the delicious cocktails and international dishes are a decent consolation prize.
Naga Bar ( 0 3864 4168; Ao Hin Khok; dishes 100-200B; 8am-10pm) The bakery-cum-restaurant here serves warm rolls, croissants and donuts in the morning, and sandwiches, pizza and Thai dishes throughout the day. There are plenty of tofu dishes to satisfy vegetarians.
O ( 0 3864 4104; Ao Phrao; dishes 80-500B; 8am-10pm) For a romantic evening it’s hard to beat the combination of delicious Italian food and delightful setting at O at Le Vimarn Cottages. Expensive by Thai standards, it’s still cheap compared with home.
Panorama Restaurant (Moo Ban Talay Resort, Laem Noi Na; dishes 120-300B; 11am-11pm) City sensibilities are well served with Asian and Western cuisine instead of guesthouse grub.
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DRINKING
Every hotel and guesthouse has a beachside bar, and there are plenty of stand-alone bar-restaurants that occupy the beachfront at Hat Sai Kaew and Ao Wong Deuan. The latter is so packed with bars it’s difficult to know where one ends and the next begins – but does it really matter?
Naga Bar (dishes 50-160B; 8-2am) On Ao Hin Khok at Naga Bungalows, this is a good destination for post-dinner shenanigans and a meeting place for backpackers.
Tok Bar (dishes 40-150B; 7-2am), nearby to Naga Bar, Tok offers the same thing.
Silver Sand Bar ( 0 6530 2417; Ao Phai; 1pm-2am) As the clock ticks towards the witching hour, the island’s night owls congregate under trippy spherical lights to watch the fire twirlers show off, grind to cheesy dance music and knock back more than 35 types of cocktail (all served in buckets, of course).
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SLEEPING
Due to the high demand, Ko Samet’s prices can seem elevated compared with the amenities on offer, especially on weekends. A ramshackle hut starts at about 300B and with air-con this can climb to 800B. Reservations aren’t always honoured, so at peak times (most weekends and especially public-holiday weekends) it is advisable to arrive early, poised for the hunt.
Hat Sai Kaew
Sai Kaew Beach Resort ( 0 2438 9771/2; www.samedresorts.com; r 6700-12,100B, bungalows 6700-8,300B; ) The original Samet resort has a wide array of rooms scattered across its vast grounds, from blue-and-white bungalows with a Mediterranean feel, to classy zen-style apartments around a pool. It’s popular with wealthy Bangkokians, but there are better resorts (and better value) elsewhere.
Lima Bella Resort ( 0 2938 1811; www.limabella.com; r 2200-6990B; ) From the people who gave Lima Coco a younger feel comes Lima Bella, a small, stylish place with a variety of spacious rooms set around a central pool. It’s a few minutes walk north of the beach but is in a peaceful, shaded area. Ask about discounts.
Samed Sand Sea ( 0 3865 1126, 0875 083 250; www.samedsandsea.com; r 1500-5000B; ) Looking more like a Swedish chalet park cum sauna, this bunch of tightly packed bungalows occupies a long, narrow block running back from the beach; ie most have views only of pine bungalow. The rooms are comfortable if not huge, and boast air-con that’s borderline cryogenic.
Ao Hin Khok & Ao Phai
Samed Villa Resort ( 0 3864 4094; www.samedvilla.com; r incl breakfast 1800-2500B; ) Hugely popular place with 40 well-maintained, tree-shaded bungalows with verandas, all at fair prices. More stylish places can be found, but the service here is good and the larger bungalows are well-suited to families.
Jep’s Bungalows ( 0 3864 4112; www.jepbungalow.com; r 300-1500B; ) Jep’s bungalows are a cheery mix of mahogany and magenta that, given the general move upmarket along this stretch of coast, are now reasonably good value. The cheapest rooms share bathrooms, while pricier pads include air-con and breakfast. Mosquito repellent is a must.
Naga Bungalows ( 0 3864 4301; r 300-500B; ) The last real backpacker joint on this stretch, the unadorned but cheap rooms, party atmosphere and smiling service keep