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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [186]

By Root 787 0
it busy.

Tok’s Little Hut (bungalows 300-1500B; ) One of the island’s first bungalow operations is now emblematic of how Samet is moving upmarket. When we visited it had shiny new, excellent-value air-con A-frame bungalows (1500B), a wrecking crew breaking up old bungalows, and at the back a forlorn few, bathroomless shacks that have been housing the baht-challenged for years. They will likely be gone by the time you arrive, and hopefully there will be a phone by then, too.

Ao Phutsa (Ao Thap Thim) & Ao Nuan

Tubtim Resort ( 0 3864 4025; www.tubtimresort.com; r 600-3000B; ) Tubtim has dozens of bungalows climbing up a rugged hill from the beach. The pick are the modern, stylish bungalows with big windows and balconies that look straight down the beach; mid-priced rooms are thoroughly comfortable, too. The beachfront restaurant isn’t bad and is more all-weather prepared than most, but service throughout can be reluctant to the point of rudeness.

Ao Nuan Bungalows (Ao Nuan; bungalows 700-2500B) If you blink you’ll miss this beach and the 10 Swiss Family Robinson–style bungalows that give it a real castaway feel. The family running it has recently added bathrooms to some (1500B), and even air-con (2500B). It’s a five-minute walk over the headland from Ao Phutsa. There’s no phone and it doesn’t take reservations.

Ao Wong Deuan & Ao Thian

Baan Thai Sang Thian Samed ( 0863 730 774; Ao Thian; r 1700-2500B; ) Think of traditional Thai architecture with a tree-house twist and you’ll sum up this family-run place. It’s the pick of the Ao Thian bunch, but you’ll feel better about staying here if you knock the price down a bit.

Vongdeuan Resort ( 0 3864 4171; www.vongdeuan.com; Ao Wong Deuan; r 2000-3500B; ) This sprawling place occupies much of the southern part of Ao Wong Deuan in its garden-like setting. Bungalows range from teak-style houses to cheaper concrete cottages at the back. Reasonable value.

Other Eastern Beaches

Paradee Resort & Spa ( 0 3864 4283; www.paradeeresort.com; villas 17,800-79,200B; ) The most luxurious resort on Samet, located on the island’s most stunning, secluded beach, is all about four-poster beds in 40 charismatic and self-contained villas. There’s gorgeous Thai furniture, a personal plunge pool, DVD player, espresso maker – even your own butler, but is it worth the mega prices? If you laugh in the face of a 6000B speedboat connection to Ban Phe, then maybe. Check online for occasional big discounts.

Nimma Noradee ( 0 3864 4271; www.nimmanoradee.com; bungalows 2700-3800B; ) On Ao Karang at the very southern end of Samet, this ‘eco-resort’ will appeal to Robinson Crusoe fans who fancy kayaking, snorkelling and, of course, bright octagonal rooms. Motorbike rental is a steep 600B a day.

Ao Phrao (Paradise Beach)

Ao Prao Resort ( 0 2438 9771/2; www.samedresorts.com; chalets 5100-21,200B; ) No longer the luxury lodging of choice on Samet, Ao Prao still has all the bells and whistles, excellent service and good prices in quieter times. Ao Prao Divers, at the resort, provides diving, windsurfing, kayaking and boat trips.

Le Vimarn Cottages ( 0 3864 4104, Bkk 0 2438 9771/2; www.samedresorts.com; r 8600-21,000B; ) Le Vimarn is manicured tranquillity, with 28 elegant cottages and villas where whitewashed walls and thatched roofs open into modern rooms with teak features. Facilities include the lavish Dhivarin Spa ( 0 3864 4104-7). Good choice.

Lima Coco ( 0 2938 1811; www.limacoco.com; d 2590-6990B; ) Built on the hillside above Ao Phrao beach, Lima Coco’s 44 rooms have had numerous makeovers and just manage to hold off the years to appeal to younger, groovier Thais from Bangkok. The resort offers a free ferry from Ban Phe.

The North Shore

In recent years several stylish midrange places have opened along Ao Klang and Ao Noi Na on the north shore. If you’re going to stay here, think about renting a motorbike.

Samed Club ( 0 3864 4341; www.samedresorts.com; Ao Noi Na; r 3200B; ) The 30 rooms at this ‘boutique resort’ are set on a compact block ranging up a hill. Their colour palette is a mix of terracotta,

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