Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [189]
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TRANSPORT: MAHACHAI RAIL LINE
Distance from Bangkok 28km to Samut Sakhon; 74km to Samut Songkhram
Direction Southwest
Travel Time One hour to Samut Sakhon, 1¾ hours to Samut Songkhram
Train Trains leave Thonburi’s Wong Wian Yai station (Map) for Samut Sakhon roughly every hour from 5.30am to 8.10pm. You’ll need to leave Thonburi before 8.30am in order to do the trip entirely by train. There are four departures from Baan Laem to Samut Songkhram (10B, 3rd class only, 7.30am, 10.10am, 1.30pm and 4.40pm). Returning, trains leave at 6.20am, 9am, 11.30am and 3.30pm. Samut Sakhon has hourly departures to Thonburi until 7pm. Late trains are not unheard of.
Taxi Hire a taxi to/from Bangkok to Samut Sakhon (500B) or Samut Songkram (1200B).
Bus If you get a late start, you can always return to Bangkok by bus. In both Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram the train station is a five-minute walk from the bus terminal. Regular buses from Samut Sakhon (45B) and Samut Songkhram (67B) arrive at the Southern Bus Terminal (Map) in Thonburi. Both cities have bus services to Damnoen Saduak.
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However, it comes as something of a relief that the province’s most famous tourist attraction is not a wát. Instead, the honour goes to a bank of fossilised shells known as Don Hoi Lot at the mouth of Mae Nam Mae Klong, not far from town. These shells come from hǒy lòrt (clams with a tubelike shell). While nearby seafood restaurants are popular with city folk year-round, the shell bank is best seen during April and May when the river surface has receded to its lowest level. To get there hop into a sǒrng·tăa·ou (10B, about 15 minutes) in front of Somdet Phra Phuttalertla Hospital at the intersection of Th Prasitwatthana and Th Thamnimit. Or charter a boat from Mae Klong Market pier (tâh đà·làht mâa glorng), a scenic journey of around 45 minutes (about 1000B).
Wat Satthatham, 500m down the road from Don Hoi Lot, is notable for its bòht constructed of golden teak and decorated with 60 million baht' worth of mother-of-pearl inlay. The inlay completely covers the temple’s interior and depicts scenes from the jataka (stories from the Buddha’s lives) above the windows and the Ramakian below.
Amphawa
If you’re not ready to turn back yet, charter a boat (1000B) or hop in a sǒrng·tăa·ou (9B) near the market for the 10-minute ride to Amphawa. This canalside village has become a popular destination among city folk who seek out what many consider its quintessentially ‘Thai’ setting. This urban influx has sparked a few signs of gentrification, but the canals, old wooden buildings, atmospheric cafes and quaint water-borne traffic still retain heaps of charm. At weekends Amphawa puts on a reasonably authentic floating market Click here; visit on a weekday if you want to have the whole town to yourself.
Steps from Amphawa’s central footbridge is Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, a graceful temple thought to be located at the place of the family home of Rama II (King Phraphutthaloetla Naphalai; r 1809–24), and which features accomplished murals. A short walk from the temple is King Buddhalertla (Phuttha Loet La) Naphalai Memorial Park (Km 63, Route 35, Samut Songkhram; admission 20B; park 9am-6pm daily, museum 9am-6pm Wed-Sun), a museum housed in a collection of traditional central-Thai houses set on four landscaped acres. Dedicated to Rama II, the museum contains rare Thai books and antiques from early 19th-century Siam.
At night longtail boats zip through Amphawa’s sleeping waters to watch the star-like dance of the hìng hôy (fireflies). Several operators lead tours, including Niphaa ( 0814 220 726), an experienced and well-equipped outfit located at the mouth of the canal, near the footbridge. If you take a tour, be aware that people are often sleeping in the homes you’ll pass, so insist the driver doesn’t make more noise than is absolutely necessary.
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