Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [190]
EATING
Khrua Chom Ao ( 0851 905 677; Samut Sakhon; dishes 60-200B) This open-air seafood restaurant looks over the gulf and has a loyal local following. It is a brief walk from Wat Chawng Lom, down the road running along the side of the temple opposite the statue of Kuan Im.
Tarua Restaurant ( 0 3441 1084; Ferry Terminal Bldg, 859 Th Sethakit, Samut Sakhon; dishes 60-200B) Occupying three floors of the imposing ferry building, this busy seafood restaurant offers views over the harbour, an English-language menu and some excellent fish and shellfish dishes.
Amphawa Floating Market (Ðà·làht nám am·pá·wah; dishes 20-40B; 4-9pm Fri-Sun) If you’re in town on a weekend, plan your meals around this fun market (see Click here) where pàt tai and other noodle dishes are served directly from boats.
Phu Yai Thawngyib ( 0 3473 5073; Amphawa; dishes 20-60B) This community development project and homestay located outside Amphawa includes a restaurant that serves authentic local dishes and sweets. Call ahead to arrange a visit.
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SLEEPING
Amphawa is popular with Bangkok’s weekend warriors and virtually every other house has opened its door to tourists in the form of homestays. These can range from little more than a mattress and a mosquito net to upscale guesthouse-style accommodation. Baan Song Thai Plai Pong Pang ( 0 3475 7333; Amphawa) organises homestays and has been recognised for ecotourism excellence. Most of these places are best reached by boat, though some have road access; call ahead or get your driver to call for directions. Highly recommended.
Reorn Pae Amphawa ( 0 3475 1333; 139-145 Rim Khlong, Amphawa; d 800B; ) A good upper-budget option is this generations-old wooden home with basic but tidy rooms.
Baan Tai Had Resort ( 0 3476 7220; www.baantaihad.com; 1 Moo 2, Th Tai Had, Samut Songkhram; r 1600-5600B; ) This riverside resort is more worthy of the description, with bright and comfortable rooms and several activities to choose from. Staff will organise several half-day boat tours.
Baan Amphawa Resort & Spa ( 0 3475 2222; www.baanamphawa.com; 22 Bangkapom-kaewfah, Amphawa; r from 3200B; ) At the top of the heap is delightful Baan Amphawa, a traditional Thai-style village with peaking red roofs set among the paddies and klorng, plus luxuries including a spa and some rooms with private pools.
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KAENG KRACHAN NATIONAL PARK
The largest national park in Thailand and home to the gorgeous Pala-U waterfalls, Kaeng Krachan National Park ( 0 3246 7326; child/adult 100/200B) is easily reached from Phetburi. There are caves to explore, mountains, a huge lake and excellent bird-watching opportunities in the evergreen forest blanketing the park. Kaeng Krachan has fantastic trekking, and it is one of the few places to see Asian elephants roaming wild (if you’re lucky). Intermittent sǒrng·tăa·ou (50B) depart from near Wat Thaw and stop at the park headquarters. To get to some of the higher camp-grounds you’ll have to charter a vehicle from the headquarters (900B) or hitch. Tom ( 0899 197 446) from Rabieng Rimnum Guest House has an infectious enthusiasm for the park and arranges fun day trips (2000B per person, minimum four people) and even more enjoyable overnight visits (per person from 2850B, minimum 4 people). The park is usually closed between 1 August and 31 October.
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PHETCHABURI (PHETBURI)
Phetchaburi (the ‘City of Diamonds’, commonly known as Phetburi) has a bit of everything – history, nature, good eats and beaches. Given buses take only a couple of hours some people make a day trip from Bangkok. But this is madness, as Phetburi is one of those chilled Thai towns where the slow pace is half the fun and the food – oh, the food! – means it’s worth staying overnight for the dinner alone.
The trip down to Phetburi passes through stereotypically central Thailand – flat plains punctuated by shaggy sugar palms and the occasional unexpected limestone outcroppings. As you get closer to Phetburi you’ll