Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [60]
OCTOBER 14 MEMORIAL
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cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Tanao; air-con 79, 503, 511 & 516, ordinary 2, 15, 49, 59, 60 & 70
A peaceful amphitheatre commemorates the civilian demonstrators who were killed by the military during a pro-democracy rally on 14 October 1973. Over 200,000 people had assembled at the Democracy Monument and along the length of Th Ratchadamnoen to protest against the arrest of political campaigners and continuing military dictatorship. Although some in Thailand continue to deny it, photographs confirm that more than 70 demonstrators were killed when the tanks met the crowd. The complex is an interesting adaptation of Thai temple architecture for a secular and political purpose. A central chedi is dedicated to the fallen and a gallery of historic photographs lines the interior wall.
KING PRAJADHIPOK MUSEUM
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0 2280 3413; kingprajadhipokmuseum.org; 2 Th Lan Luang; admission 40B; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun; air-con 44, 79 & 511, ordinary 2, 15, 59 & 60; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
A visit to a royal museum might sound like a royal bore, but this collection uses modern techniques to relate the rather dramatic life of Rama VII (King Prajadhipok; r 1925–35), while neatly documenting Thailand’s transition from absolute to constitutional monarchy. The museum occupies a grand neocolonial-style building constructed on the orders of Rama V for his favourite firm of Bond St merchants; it was the only foreign business allowed on the royal road linking Bangkok’s two palace districts.
The exhibitions reveal that Prajadhipok did not expect to become king, but once on the throne showed considerable diplomacy in dealing with what was, in effect, a revolution fomented by a new intellectual class of Thais. The first floor deals with the life of Queen Rambhai Barni, while the upper two floors cover the king’s own life. It is revealed, for example, that the army officer–turned-king had spent many of his formative years in Europe where he became fond of British democracy. Ironically, those plotting his downfall had themselves learned of democracy during years of European education. A coup, carried out while the king and queen were playing golf, ended Thailand’s absolute monarchy in 1932. Prajadhipok’s reign eventually ended when he abdicated while in England in 1935; he died there in 1941.
PHRA SUMEN FORT & SANTICHAIPRAKAN PARK
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cnr Th Phra Athit & Th Phra Sumen; 5am-10pm; ordinary 15, 30 & 53; Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
Beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya in Banglamphu stands one of Bangkok’s original 18th-century forts. Built in 1783 to defend against potential naval invasions and named for the mythical Mt Meru (Phra Sumen in Thai) of Hindu-Buddhist cosmology, the octagonal brick-and-stucco bunker was one of 14 city watchtowers that punctuated the old city wall alongside Khlong Rop Krung (now Khlong Banglamphu but still called Khlong Rop Krung on most signs). Apart from Mahakan Fort, this is the only one still standing.
Alongside the fort and fronting the river is a small, grassy park with an open-air pavilion, river views, cool breezes and a bohemian mix of alternative young Thais and fisherman pants–wearing, fire stick–twirling backpackers. It’s an interesting place to sit, people-watch and see what are said to be the last two lampoo trees in Banglamphu.
From the park a walkway ( 5am-10pm) built above the river zigzags south from the fort all the way to Saphan Phra Pin Klao. Along the way you can catch glimpses of some of Th Phra Athit’s classic old Ratanakosin-style mansions that are not visible from the street, including those housing parts of the Buddhist Society of Thailand and the UN’s Food & Agriculture Organization.
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WHAT’S A WáT?
Bangkok is home to hundreds of wáts, monastery temples that have traditionally been at the centre of community life. Wát literally means ‘school’ and for centuries formal education was conducted exclusively by Buddhist monks in their wát. These days there are fewer monks and plenty of schools, but the wát remains the