Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [61]
Buildings & Structures
By definition a wát is the whole monastery compound and must have a minimum of three resident monks to be known as such, though in reality a site rarely loses its ‘wát’ status. Even the smallest wát will usually have a bóht, wí·hăhn and monks’ living quarters. The larger the wát, the more structures it will have.
Bòht The most-sacred prayer room at a wát, often similar in size and shape to the wí·hăhn. Aside from the fact it does not house the main Buddha image, you’ll know the bóht because it is usually more ornately decorated and has eight cornerstones to ward off evil.
Chedi (stupa) A large bell-shaped tower usually containing five structural elements symbolising (from bottom to top) earth, water, fire, wind and void; depending on the wát, relics of the Buddha, a Thai king or some other notable are housed inside.
Drum Tower Elevates the ceremonial drum beaten by novices.
Mon·dòp An open-sided, square building with four arches and a pyramidal roof, used to worship religious objects or texts.
Prang A towering phallic spire of Khmer origin serving the same religious purpose as a chedi.
Sala A pavilion, often open-sided, for relaxation, lessons or miscellaneous activities.
Wí·hăhn (vihara) The sanctuary for the temple’s main Buddha image and where laypeople come to make their offerings. Classic architecture typically has a three-tiered roof representing the triple gems: the Buddha (the teacher), Dharma (the teaching) and Brotherhood (the followers).
Buddha Images
Elongated earlobes, no evidence of bone or muscle, arms that reach to the knees, a third eye: these are some of the 32 rules, originating from 3rd-century India, that govern the depiction of the Buddha in sculpture and denote his divine nature. Other symbols to be aware of are the various hand positions and ‘postures’, which depict periods in the life of the Buddha.
Sitting Teaching or meditating. If the right hand is pointed towards the earth, the Buddha is subduing the demons of desire. If the hands are folded in the lap, Buddha is meditating.
Reclining The exact moment of the Buddha’s passing into parinibbana (postdeath nirvana).
Standing Bestowing blessings or taming evil forces.
Walking The Buddha after his return to earth from heaven.
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WAT BOWONNIWET
Map
0 2281 2831; www.watbowon.org; Th Phra Sumen; admission free; 8.30am-5pm; Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
Founded in 1826, Wat Bowonniwet (Wat Bowon) is the national headquarters for the Thammayut monastic sect, a reformed version of Thai Buddhism. Rama IV (King Mongkut; r 1851–68), who set out to be a scholar, not a king, founded the Thammayuts and began the royal tradition of ordination at this temple. In fact, Mongkut was the abbot of Wat Bowon for several years. Rama IX (King Bhumibol Adulyadej; r 1946–present) and Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, as well as several other males in the royal family, have been ordained as monks here.
Bangkok’s second Buddhist university, Mahamakut University, is housed at Wat Bowon. Selected monks are sent from India, Nepal and Sri Lanka to study here. Because of its royal status, visitors should be particularly careful to dress properly for admittance to this wát – shorts and sleeveless clothing are not allowed.
WAT RATCHANATDA
Map
0 2224 8807; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Mahachai; admission by donation; 8am-5pm; air-con 511, ordinary 2; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
Across Th Mahachai from the Golden Mount, this temple is most stunning at night when the 37 spires of the all-metal Loha Prasat (Metal Palace) are lit up like a medieval birthday cake. Displaying Burmese influences, it was built for Rama III in the 1840s in honour of his granddaughter. The design is said to derive from metal temples built in India and Sri Lanka more than 2000 years ago. The 37 spires represent the 37 virtues that lead to enlightenment. Recently restored, the interior is relatively unadorned by Thai temple standards, but the hallways and square edges contribute to a symmetry