Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [77]
CHULALONGKORN UNIVERSITY
Map
0 2215 0871; www.chula.ac.th; 254 Th Phayathai; air-con 502, ordinary 21; Sam Yan exit 2; Siam exit 2 or 6
Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious university is nestled in a leafy enclave south of busy Th Phra Ram I. The centrepiece of the campus is the promenade ground on the east side of Th Phayathai where a seated statue of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) is surrounded by purple bougainvillea and offerings of pink carnations. The showcase buildings display the architectural fusion the monarch favoured, a mix of Italian revival and Thai traditional. The campus has a parklike quality, with noble tropical trees considerately labelled for plant geeks. Of the many species that shade the campus, the rain trees with their delicate leaves are considered symbolic of the university; they are commemorated in a school song, and their deciduous cycle matches the beginning and ending of each school year.
The university has two art galleries, Jamjuree and the Art Centre ( 0 2218 2965; www.car.chula.ac.th/art; Centre of Academic Resources Bldg, 7th fl; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat). The latter shows Chula professors as well as major names in the Thai and international modern art scene; permanent exhibits include Thai art retrospectives.
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RATCHATHEWI
VICTORY MONUMENT
Map
Th Ratchawithi & Phayathai; ordinary 12 & 62; Victory Monument
This obelisk monument is one of the most recognisable, and controversial, in Bangkok. The monument was built by the then military government in 1941 to commemorate a 1940 campaign against the French in Laos. The ‘victory’ (brokered by Japan) resulted in Cambodian and Lao territory that had earlier been ceded to the French being returned to Thailand. However, by 1945 the monument had become something of an embarrassment, given the territory had to be handed back to the French following the defeat of Japan.
Today the monument is primarily a landmark for observing the social universe of local university students and countless commuters. An elevated walkway circumnavigates the roundabout, funnelling the pedestrian traffic in and out of the Skytrain station as well as providing a gathering spot for breakdancers, flirters and lots of fashion experiments. It’s worth fighting your way out of the vendors and pedestrian crush and into the neighbourhood around Victory Monument, which is reminiscent of provincial Thai towns, if not exactly hicksville. Nearby bars and cafes cater to the university crowd – try the rooftop Sky Train Jazz Club on the corner of Soi Rang Nam. And if you wander down Soi Rang Nam you’ll find local lôok tûng and pleng pêu·a chee·wít (songs for life) places with live music most evenings.
BAIYOKE II TOWER
Map
0 2656 3000; 22 Th Ratchaprarop; admission 200B, after 6pm 250B; 10am-10pm; klorng boat to Tha Pratunam
Thailand’s tallest tower, if not its most architecturally attractive, the Baiyoke II tower soars to 88 storeys (85 of them above ground), the upper of which are often clad with some truly huge advertising. The main attraction here is the 77th floor observation deck. The views are as impressive as you’d expect (unless it’s too smoggy) but only just compensate for the tacky decor, uninspiring restaurant and inconvenient location. If you have a choice, the upstairs rooftop bars and revolving restaurant are better.
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TRANSPORT: RATCHATHEWI
Bus Air-con 503, 513 & 536; ordinary 29, 36, 54, 59 & 112
Klorng boat From Banglamphu and the upper soi of Sukhumvit to Tha Pratunam
Skytrain Ratchathewi, Phaya Thai & Victory Monument
If you’re coming from the Silom, Sathon or Sukhumvit areas,