Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [78]
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WANG SUAN PHAKKAT
Map
0 2245 4934; Th Si Ayuthaya, btwn Th Phayathai & Th Ratchaprarop; admission 100B; 9am-4pm; ordinary 72; Phaya Thai exit 4
Everyone loves Jim Thompson’s House, but few have even heard of Wang Suan Phakkat (Lettuce Farm Palace), another noteworthy traditional Thai house-museum. Once the residence of Princess Chumbon of Nakhon Sawan, the museum is a collection of five traditional wooden Thai houses linked by elevated walkways containing varied displays of art, antiques and furnishings. The landscaped grounds are a peaceful oasis complete with ducks, swans and a semi-enclosed, Japanese-style garden.
The diminutive Lacquer Pavilion at the back of the complex dates from the Ayuthaya period (the building originally sat in a monastery compound on the banks of Mae Nam Chao Phraya, just south of Ayuthaya) and features gold-leaf Jataka and Ramayana murals as well as scenes from daily Ayuthaya life. Larger residential structures at the front of the complex contain displays of Khmer, Hindu and Buddhist art, Ban Chiang ceramics and a collection of historic Buddhas, including a beautiful late U Thong–style image. In the noise and confusion of Bangkok, the gardens offer a tranquil retreat.
PHAYATHAI PALACE
Map
0 2354 7732; King Mongkut Hospital, 315 Th Ratchawithi; admission free; 9am-4pm Sat; Victory Monument exit 3
West of the Victory Monument roundabout, Phayathai Palace was built by Rama V in 1909 as a cottage for retreats into what was then the country. The surviving throne hall, encased in French glass doors and a fanciful tiered roof, is now part of a hospital complex and is open to the public. Note the limited hours; tours are conducted at 9.30am and 1.30pm on Saturday. The grounds are open at other times. There isn’t much in the way of tourist displays, but it’s worth a visit to survey the architecture of the buildings and escape the sightseeing masses.
BANGKOK DOLL FACTORY & MUSEUM
Map
0 2245 3008; www.bangkokdolls.com; 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng), Th Ratchaprarop; admission free; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat; ordinary 62 & 77
It’s no exaggeration to say the dolls crafted in this modest workshop have become the template for dolls sold in countless tourist stores across Thailand. The workshop was founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandevimol in 1956 after she completed a doll-making course while living in Japan. Upon her return to Thailand, she began researching and making dolls, drawing from Thai mythology and historical periods. Her dolls, often in Thai hill-tribe and rural costumes, have won several international awards. Today her personal collection includes 400 dolls from around the world, plus important pieces from her own workshop, where you can watch the figures being crafted by hand.
The museum is difficult to find: it is best approached via Th Si Ayuthaya heading east. Cross under the expressway past the intersection with Th Ratchaprarop and take the soi to the right of the post office. Follow this windy street until you start seeing signs. Easier, take a taxi and get the driver to call the museum for directions.
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DIY BAAN KRUA
Walking Tour
We could tell you to take lefts and rights down little alleys, but exploring this historic Muslim village is more fun if you just venture forth and find your own way. But we will get you into the village… Start this DIY tour when you finish your tour of Jim Thompson’s House; head left to the klorng and left again. You’ll soon come to Garimmin & Sobereen ( 7am-8pm Mon-Sat), a makeshift, klorng-side place selling cheap, delicious Muslim curries and noodle dishes plus cold drinks (no beer). It’s a great spot to sit and watch the klorng boats motor by while observing village life on the other side: men dressed in white dishdashas, exotic caged birds yapping and women selling food and everyday items from tiny stores