Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [90]
AMULET MARKET
Map Market
several small soi off Th Maharat, near Wat Mahathat, Ko Ratanakosin; 8am-6pm; air-con 503, 508 & 511, ordinary 15 & 53; Tha Chang (N9)
Catholics with their parade of saints and protective medals will recognise a great kinship with this streetside amulet market. Ranging from pendant-sized to medallion-sized, prá krêu·ang (amulets) come in various classes, from rare objects or relics (like tusks, antlers or the dentures of abbots) to images of Buddha or famous monks embossed in bronze, wood or clay. Itinerant dealers spread their wares on blankets along the broken pavement across from the temple, and more-permanent shops proliferate in the sunless alleyways along the river. Taxi drivers, monks and average folk squat alongside the displays inspecting novel pieces like practised jewellers. Mixed in with certain amulets are pulverised substances: dirt from a special temple, hair from a monk or powerful herbs.
* * *
SHOPPING GUIDE
The city’s intense urban tangle sometimes makes orientation a challenge in finding intimate shops and markets. Like having your own personal guide, Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok (www.nancychandler.net) tracks all sorts of small, out-of-the-way shopping venues and markets as well as dissecting the innards of the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The colourful map is sold in bookshops throughout the city.
* * *
* * *
TAX REFUNDS
A 7% Value Added Tax applies to most purchases in Thailand, but if you spend enough and get the paperwork the kindly Revenue Department will refund it at the airport when you leave. To qualify to receive a refund, you must not be a Thai citizen, part of an airline air crew or have spent more than 180 days in Thailand during the previous year. Your purchase must have been made at an approved store; look for the blue and white VAT Refund sticker. Minimum purchases must add up to 2000B per store in a single day, and to at least 5000B total for the whole trip. Before you leave the store get a VAT Refund (PP10) form and tax invoice. Most major malls in Bangkok will direct you to a dedicated VAT Refund desk, which will organise the appropriate paperwork (it takes about five minutes). Note that you won’t get a refund on VAT paid in hotels or restaurants.
At the airport, your purchases must be declared at the customs desk in the departure hall, which will give you the appropriate stamp; you can then check them in. Smaller items (such as watches and jewellery) should be hand-carried as they will need to be reinspected once you’ve passed immigration. You actually get your money at a VAT Refund Tourist Office ( 0 2272 8198). At Suvarnabhumi Airport these are on Level 4 in both the east and west wings. For a how-to brochure see www.rd.go.th/vrt.
* * *
When the serious collectors aren’t perusing the market, they are flipping through amulet magazines that discuss noteworthy specimens. While money changes hands between vendor and customer, both use the euphemism of ‘renting’ to get around the prohibition of selling Buddhas.
Return to beginning of chapter
BANGLAMPHU
The spectrum of goods available in this district ranges from backpacker staples along Th Khao San to delicious Thai curry pastes and high-quality handicrafts in the more traditional areas nearby. In recent years the twain have met, and Th Khao San has expanded into the silver business with souvenir-grade baubles sold in bulk to importers.
NITTAYA CURRY SHOP
Map Food
0 2282 8212; 136-40 Th Chakhraphong; 10am-6pm; air-con 3 & 16, ordinary 3, 15 & 16; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
Follow your nose: Nittaya is famous throughout Thailand for her pungent but high-quality curry pastes. Pick up a couple of takeaway canisters for prospective dinner parties or peruse the snack and gift sections, where visitors to Bangkok load up on local specialities for friends back in the provinces.
TAEKEE TAEKON
Map Handicrafts
0 2629 1473/4; 118 Th Phra Athit; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha