Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [91]
This atmospheric shop has a decent selection of Thai textiles from the country’s main silk-producing areas, especially northern Thailand, as well as assorted local knick-knackery and interesting postcards not widely available elsewhere.
THAI NAKORN
Map Handicrafts
0 2281 7867; 79 Th Prachathipathai; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; air-con 3 & 16, ordinary 3, 15 & 16
This family-owned enterprise has been in business for 70 years and often fills commissions from the royal family for nielloware and silver ornaments. Silver-moulded cases and clutches, ceremonial bowls and tea sets are also among the offerings. If you can navigate the language, ask to go behind the showroom to witness the aged artisans at work.
THANON KHAO SAN MARKET
Map Market
Th Khao San; 10am-2am Tue-Sun; air-con 44, 59, 157, 503, 509 & 511, ordinary 15, 44, 47, 59, 157 & 159; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
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BUYER BEWARE
The disparity between the Thai baht and foreign currencies often clouds the judgment of otherwise eagle-eyed shoppers. Do your homework and approach each expensive transaction with a healthy amount of scepticism.
Antiques
Real Thai antiques are rare and costly and reserved primarily for serious collectors. Everything else is designed to look old and most shopkeepers are happy to admit it. Reputable antique dealers will issue an authentication certificate. Contact the Department of Fine Arts ( 0 2221 4443) to obtain the required licence for exporting religious images and fragments, either antique or reproduction.
Gems & Jewellery
Thailand is one of the world’s largest exporters of gems and ornaments, but scams are more prevalent than bargains (for details see Click here). Don’t buy goods from a shop that claims to have a ‘one-day’ sale or wants you to deliver uncut gems to your home country for resale.
Reputable dealers don’t pay commissions to túk-túk drivers but are known by customer referrals. Most are members of the Jewel Fest Club, established jointly by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 2250 5500; www.tourismthailand.org; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and the Thai Gem Jewellery Traders Association (www.thaigemjewelry.com). When you purchase from a member shop, a certificate detailing your purchase will be issued and a refund is guaranteed (of up to 20%). A list of members offering government guarantees is available from TAT, or visit the association’s website for buying information.
The latest trend is to open a gem ‘museum’, charging a hefty admission price, with an attached jewellery store. Proceed with caution.
Tailor-Made Clothes
Tailors are as prolific as massage parlours in Bangkok and so are the scams. For advice on getting clothes tailored, as well as some reputable shops, see the boxed text, Click here.
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The main guesthouse strip in Banglamphu is a day and night shopping bazaar, selling all but the baby and the bath water. Cheap T-shirts, trendy purses, wooden frogs, fuzzy puppets, bootleg CDs, hemp clothing, fake student ID cards, knock-off designer wear, souvenirs, corn on the cob, orange juice… You name it, they’ve got it.
CHAROEN CHAIKARNCHANG SHOP
Map Religious
0 2222 4800; 87 Soi Nava, Th Bamrung Muang; 9am-6pm; air-con 59, ordinary 42 & 59; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
Easily the largest and most impressive religious shop in an area of impressive religious shops. The workshop at the back produces gigantic bronze Buddha images for wát all over Thailand. You might be unlikely to buy a life-sized Buddha, but looking is fun and who knows when you might need to do a great deal of merit making.
WAT RATCHANATDA AMULET MARKET
Map Market
0 2224 8807; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Mahachai; 9am-5pm; air-con 59, ordinary 42 & 59; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
This Buddhist temple dates from the mid-19th century and today is home to a well-known market selling Buddhist prá pim (magical charm amulets) in all sizes, shapes and styles. The amulets not only feature images of the Buddha, but also famous Thai monks and Indian deities. Buddha images are also for, ahm,