Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [101]
The trail climbs through blue pines, then switchbacks steeply up the ridge, where a sign exhorts you to ‘Walk to Guru’s glory! For here in this kingdom rules an unparalled benevolent king’! If you have just flown into Paro, walk slowly because you are likely to be affected by the altitude.
Once you reach the ridge there are excellent views across the valley. To the southwest is the area around Drukgyel; you can see the large school below the village and the army camp above it. After a climb of about one hour and a gain of 300m from the parking lot you will reach a small chorten and some prayer flags on the ridge. Be watchful here as the trail crosses an archery ground. It’s then a short walk to the caféteria (2940m), where you can savour the impressive view of the monastery over a well-deserved cup of tea. The caféteria also serves full meals; if you arrange your schedule accordingly, you can have breakfast or lunch here.
The trail continues up for another 30 minutes to a spring and basic monastery guesthouse, used by some Buddhist groups. A cave and plaque marks the birthplace of the previous Je Khenpo; his former residence is just up the hill. A short walk further along the main trail brings you to a spectacular lookout at 3140m that puts you eyeball to eyeball with the monastery, which looks like it is growing out of the rocks.
From this vantage point Taktshang seems almost close enough to touch, but it’s on the far side of a deep chasm, about 150m away. The trail descends to a waterfall and the Singye Phu Lhakhang (Snow Lion Cave), a meditation retreat jammed dramatically into a rock crevice, before climbing back up to the monastery entrance.
The Monastery
Since 2005 it has been possible for tourists to enter the monastery, but only if your guide has arranged a permit in advance. Bags and cameras generally have to be deposited at the entrance and you must register with the army.
As you enter the complex you pass underneath images of the Rigsum Goempo (Jampelyang, Chenresig and Channa Dorje). The first chapel on the left has connections to Dorje Phagmo, with a rock image of the goddess hidden in a recessed hole in the floor. The inner chorten belongs to Langchen Pelgyi Tsengay, a 9th-century disciple of Guru Rinpoche, who meditated in the cave. Behind the chorten is a holy spring.
The Guru Lhakhang has a central image of Pema Jungme, one of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. This statue replaced a famous ‘talking’ image that was lost in the 1998 fire. Various demonic animal-headed deities, several manifestations of the deity Phurba, and the protector Tseringma (riding a snowlion) decorate the walls.
From here you descend to the Dubkhang, the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for three months. Outside the cave is a statue of Dorje Drolo, the manifestation the Guru assumed to fly to Taktshang. Inside the cave, behind a spectacularly gilded door, is a chorten stuffed with lots of miniature phurba (thunderbolt symbols) with carved heads. Thangtong Gyalpo sits above the door holding his iron chains. Murals of the Guru Tsengye, the eight manifestations of the Guru, decorate the walls.
Further on inside the complex is the Guru Tsengye Lhakhang, which features an image of the monastery’s 17th-century founder, Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay. Ask a monk to show you the trap door!
Above the Monastery
After visiting the Tiger’s Nest it is possible to take a side trail uphill to the Machig-phu Lhakhang, where Bhutanese pilgrims come to pray for children. Head to the cave behind the chapel and select the image of the Tibetan saint Machig Labdron on the right (for a baby girl), or the penis print on the cave wall to the left (for a boy). The main statues inside the chapel are of Machig (Click here) and her husband Padampa Sangye.
Just above here the trail branches right to the Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang, while the left branch climbs up to the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang, named after Guru Rinpoche’s heavenly paradise and perched on a crag with great views down to the Tiger’s Nest. Roll the dice inside the chapel to double your chances