Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [102]
DRUKGYEL DZONG
At the end of the road, 14km from Paro, stand the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong. This dzong was built in 1649 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in a location chosen for its control of the route to Tibet. The dzong was named ‘Druk’ (Bhutan) ‘gyel’ (victory) to commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invaders in 1644. One of the features of the dzong was a false entrance that was designed to lure invaders into an enclosed courtyard. This is said to have worked successfully during the second attack by Tibetan invaders in 1648.
The dzong sits at the point where the trail from Tibet via the Tremo La enters the Paro valley. Once the Tibetan invasions ceased, this became a major trade route between Bhutan and the Tibetan town of Phari. A small amount of informal trade continues to the present day. On a clear day (most likely in October or November) there is a spectacular view of Jhomolhari from the area near the dzong.
Drukgyel Dzong was featured on the cover of the US National Geographic magazine when an article was published about Bhutan by John Claude White in 1914. The building was used as an administrative centre until 1951, when a fire caused by a butter lamp destroyed it. You can still see the charred beams lodged in the ruined walls.
Now the dzong is in ruins. There have been a few attempts at renovation, but all that has been accomplished is the installation of some props to keep the roof of the five-storey main structure from collapsing. You can walk up a short path into the front courtyard of the dzong, past the remains of the large towers and the tunnel that was used to obtain water from the stream below during a long siege. At the back are two ta dzongs.
On the way to the dzong you pass Jetshaphu village, with its important school, several army training camps and the Amankora resort.
Southeast of Paro
Twin roads leads south from Paro to Bondey, where roads head west to Haa and southeast to the confluence at Chhuzom, 24km from Paro and 18km from Bondey.
PARO TO BONDEY (6KM)
The west-bank road south of Paro passes above the airport and Khangkhu Lhakhang to Bondey, which straddles the Paro Chhu to the southeast of the airport.
Beyond the turn-off to the Cheli La is the 400-year-old Bondey Lhakhang, on the west bank of the river. On the east side of the Paro Chhu, near the Bondey Zam, is the charming and unusually-shaped Tago (Walnut) Lhakhang, founded by Thangtong Gyalpo. A short but steep climb above Bondey is the small Pelri Goemba. From here roads lead north to the airport and south to Chhuzom.
An unpaved road leads west from Bondey through fields to the small, recently constructed Changchi Lhakhang. A short walk, bumpy drive or, better, a mountain-bike ride further up this road affords a view of Dzongdrakha Goemba, four chapels and a large white chorten hanging on the side of a cliff. You also get views of the goemba from along the road to the Cheli La.
CHELI LA
If you don’t have time to visit the Haa valley, the 35km drive up to the 3810m Cheli La makes an interesting day excursion from Paro and is an excellent jumping-off point for day walks. On a clear day from the pass there are views of Jhomolhari as well as down to the Haa valley.
For details of the drive over the pass to the Haa valley Click here.
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PARO TO THIMPHU (53KM)
Figure on two hours driving from Paro to Thimphu, longer if you stop en route.
Bondey to Chhuzom
18km / 30 mins
If you’re coming from the airport you’ll first reach the settlement of Bondey, where there are some lovely old traditional Bhutanese houses and chapels (see left).
About 3km from Bondey is Shaba, a small settlement with an army and road camp. At Isuna, 12km from Bondey, the road crosses a bridge to the south bank of the Paro Chhu. Drak Kharpo, a mountain cave (drak) where Guru Rinpoche meditated, clings to the rocks high above, a tough three-hour hike from