Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [129]
Information
Bank of Bhutan ( 631123; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
Bhutan Broadcasting Service ( 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; per min Nu 1) Slow but cheap internet access on a hill at the south end of town.
Jambay Communication Service ( 8am-7.30pm; per min Nu 2) Internet access.
Pema Yangchen Tsongkhag For medical supplies.
Sights
JAKAR DZONG
According to legend, when the lamas assembled in about 1549 to select a site for a monastery, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an important omen, and the hill was chosen as the site for a monastery and for Jakar Dzong, which roughly translates as ‘castle of the white bird’. The Zhabdrung’s great-grandfather, Ngagi Wangchuck, founded the monastery.
Jakar Dzong is in a picturesque location overlooking the Chokhor valley. The current structure was built in 1667 and has a circumference of more than 1500m. Its official name is Yuelay Namgyal Dzong, in honour of the victory over the troops of Tibetan ruler Phuntsho Namgyal. The utse (central tower) is unusually situated on the outside wall, so there is no way to circumambulate it. A covered passage leads from the dzong down the hill to a nearby spring – a feature that ensured water could be obtained in the event of a long siege.
The approach to the dzong is made on foot along a stone-paved path. The entrance leads into a narrow courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. The utse is on the east side of the courtyard and beyond that is the monks’ quarters and the district court. At the west end of the dzong is a slightly larger courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. Behind here, outside the main dzong, is a half-round ta dzong, or watchtower.
Compared to other dzongs, there are relatively few wood carvings here; most of the timber is decorated with paintings.
Even if the chapels are closed it’s a worthwhile climb for the views of the Chokhor valley from the front courtyard.
WANGDICHHOLING DZONG
The extensive palace of Wangdichholing was built in 1857 on the site of a battle camp of the penlop of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal. It was the first palace in Bhutan that was not designed as a fortress. Namgyal’s son, King Ugyen Wangchuck, the first King of Bhutan, chose it as his principal residence. The entire court moved from Wangdichholing to Kuenga Rabten (Click here) each winter in a procession that took three days. Wangdichholing was also for a time the home of the third king, before he moved the court to Punakha in 1952.
Wangdichholing was inherited by Ashi Choeki Wangchuck, an aunt of the present king, and the grand but rather neglected building is now used as a lobdra (school for younger novices). There are five giant prayer wheels inside square chortens just to the north. The impressive building next door is the Amankora resort.
NAMKHE NYINGPO GOEMBA
On the hill to the east of Jakar is the Namkhe Nyingpo Goemba. This Nyingma monastery was founded in the 1970s and has more than 300 monks in residence. The new prayer hall has massive statues of Guru Rinpoche, Chenresig and Sakyamuni. If you’re here between 4.30pm and 6pm check out the mass debating in the courtyard of the shedra, behind the main monastery, where monks reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a victorious slap. Don’t disturb the debating with your photography.
LAMEY GOEMBA
High on a hill sits Lamey Goemba, a large palace and monastery built in the 1800s as a residence for King Ugyen Wangchuck. Its design is in the palace style of the time, and is similar to Wangdichholing. It is now being used by the Integrated Forest Development Project and isn’t formally open to visitors.
Sleeping
All of Bumthang’s guesthouses follow a similar design, with pine-clad rooms and cosy separate