Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [130]
JAKAR
The following hotels are either in Jakar town or on the outskirts.
Jakar Village Lodge (Map; 631242; gyeldup@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1100/1200, deluxe r Nu 1600; ) Said to have some of the best food in Bumthang, this hotel situated below the dzong is run by an ex-dzongdag (district administrator) who will regale you with stories as you sample his assortment of teas and real freshly ground coffee (!) in the lounge/dining room. The terrace enjoys great views over the valley. Major renovations added new rooms in 2006.
Mountain Lodge (Map; 631255; mtnlodge@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1500/1700) The lodge has wood-panelled rooms in a large two-storey building overlooking Wangdichholing Palace. Good staff, tasty food and good rooms make this a good choice.
Swiss Guest House (Map; 631198; swissguesthouse@druknet.bt; s/d without bathroom Nu 1000/1100, s/d with bathroom Nu 1300/1500, deluxe r Nu 2000; ) It doesn’t get more bucolic than this wooden farmhouse surrounded by apple orchards on a hillside above the valley floor. The pine-panelled rooms are rustic but cosy and some have verandas. In 1983 this was the first guesthouse in Bumthang and 10 of the 30 rooms still share bathrooms. Check out the bearskin in the main lodge (the bear was caught raiding the farm’s honey hives in 2000). The water supply in the main building is from a rock spring; this is probably the only place in south Asia advertising that you can safely drink the tap water. The bar is the only place in Bhutan where you can get Red Panda beer on draft, guaranteed fresh, since it’s brewed just down the road!
River Lodge (Map; 631287; pemadawa@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 800/950; ) This popular place above the road has rooms in a converted farmhouse, in motel-style cottages or in deluxe rooms below the restaurant. A few rooms share bathrooms. The lodge has helpful management, a small library and hot-stone bath (Nu 295 to 495 per person). Irritants include dim lights, small bathrooms and a lack of electrical plugs, and the food’s not brilliant, but most people seem to enjoy the stay.
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WALKING THE BUMTHANG VALLEY
There are plenty of opportunities for day hikes in the Bumthang region, many involving visits to remote goembas. If you are on a tourist visa, take advantage of the vehicle at your disposal and arrange for the driver to pick you up at the end of a walk.
From Swiss Guest House to Pelseling Goemba is a favourite half-day walk, descending a different route to Thamshing Goemba in a total of about four hours’ walking. The first half is all uphill (2½ hours) but is more varied than the hike to Tharpaling, through a mix of forest, meadows and villages, and you are rewarded with great views. The monastery is a great place for a packed lunch or flask of tea.
You can also walk from Lamey Goemba over the ridge to Tharpaling Goemba, at 3500m in the Chhume valley, and meet your vehicle there. The trail branches off a logging road 1km past the goemba. The first two hours are a hard uphill slog through rhododendron and bamboo, before you finally cross a pass and descend across the bare hillsides of the Chhume Valley to the Zhambhala Lhakhang, Choedrak Hermitage and finally Tharpaling. The hike offers less in the way of views but more the feel of a pilgrimage, taking in several sacred sites. Check for ticks along this route.
A good full-day excursion is to hike up the valley from Thangbi Goemba to Ngang Lhakhang. This is the first day of the Bumthang Cultural trek (Click here).
A longer day hike leads from the Swiss Guest House over the ridge to Kunzangdrak Goemba (Click here).
The best short walk is between Kurjey and Tamshing goembas via the Dozam and rock paintings of Lha Kharpo (Click here). You can also walk down the east valley road from Konchogsum Lhakhang to the