Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [170]
If you are in a small group you can cross the pass and drop to an excellent camping place in a meadow below Jili Dzong at 3480m.
Day 2: Jili Dzong to Jangchhu Lakha
10km / 3-4 hours / 310m ascent, 50m descent
This is a short day, which allows time to visit Jili Dzong, atop a promontory at 3570m. If the weather is clear, there is an excellent view of Paro town and the upper Paro valley far below, with Jhomolhari and other snowcapped peaks in the distance.
Jili Dzong was the residence of Ngawang Chhogyel (1465–1540), the cousin of Lama Drukpa Kunley. The large lhakhang (temple) contains an impressive statue of Sakyamuni almost 4m high. Once in a state of disrepair, the walls of the lhakhang have been replastered and painted. One wonders what kinds of mischief the young monks must have perpetrated to warrant banishment to such a high and isolated monastery.
From the dzong the route begins a long ridge walk, first climbing on the west side of the ridge in a rhododendron forest to a saddle at 3550m, then descending through a forest of trees ravaged by bark beetles. Climb again and traverse around the west side of a cone-shaped hill to a meadow. There are views of Jhomolhari and other snow peaks, and you are likely to see or hear some monal pheasants during the day. Cross to the east side of the ridge and make a long traverse through rhododendrons and cedars to Jangchhu Lakha, a pasture at 3760m. There is another good camping spot 10 minutes beyond at Tshokam, a yak-herder camp at 3770m.
Day 3: Jangchhu Lakha to Jimilang Tsho
11km / 4 hours / 230m descent, 330m ascent
Beyond Tshokam there is a choice of trails. The high trail follows the ridge, making many ups and downs, and is said to be difficult and about two hours longer than the normal route. From the ridge there are good views of Jhomolhari and 6989m Jichu Drakye, the peak representing the protective deity of Paro.
The normal route descends from Tshokam through forests to the foot of a valley and crosses the upper part of the Bemang Rong Chhu, here only a stream, at 3540m. Trek upstream past a yak pasture called Langrithang. The trail is difficult to see as it traverses muddy bogs, but eventually becomes more distinct as it follows the east side of the stream (river left) to a small bridge at 3670m. A short distance above the bridge the high route rejoins after a descent from the ridge. The trail then climbs through forest and finally makes a steep ascent through large rocks and dwarf rhododendrons to a crest, then traverses a short distance to Jimilang Tsho, an isolated lake at 3870m. There is a pleasant camping place at the far end of the lake.
Jimilang Tsho means ‘Sand Ox Lake’, and was named for a bull that emerged from the lake and joined the cattle of a family that uses the area as a summer grazing ground. The lake is also known for its giant trout, which were introduced in the 1970s.
It is possible to cut the trek short by descending towards the southeast through a forest of blue pine to the road at Tsaluna, but the route is not obvious and crosses the river several times. This route passes Tsalu Ney, a 14th-century lhakhang at a cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated.
Day 4: Jimilang Tsho to Simkotra Tsho
11km / 4 hours / 820m ascent, 400m descent
The trail climbs from the lower end of the lake to a ridge at 4010m, makes a traverse along the side of the ridge, then descends to a single stone shelter. Climb to another ridge, then make several ups and downs to a crest at 4050m overlooking Janye Tsho. Descend to a yak herders’ camp near the lake and walk along the shore at 3950m before climbing to a ridge at 4150m and descending to some stone ruins and a camp spot at 4110m, overlooking Simkotra Tsho.
Be sure you have agreement on where to camp on this day. The horse drivers often push to continue over the next pass to a better camp and grazing land at Labana.
Day 5: Simkotra Tsho to Phajoding
10km / 3-4 hours / 130m ascent, 680m descent
It’s another long climb past several false summits, then a long rocky traverse to