Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [171]
Below Labana La, a side trail descends through rocks to a camping place at 4110m, near a stone hut beside an almost-dry lake at Labana.
Pass a rough stone wall and soon come to some prayer flags on a hill above the trail that mark a seldom-used sky burial site. Another long traverse leads to a crest at 4120m, then drop and cross a final ridge at Phume La (4080m). Weather permitting, there are views of Gangkhar Puensum and other Himalayan peaks. Below sprawls the entire Thimphu valley. A trail leads northeast and descends steeply towards Phajoding. An alternative trail leads southeast and descends to Thujidrag Goemba, a meditation centre that hangs on the side of a precipitous rock face at 3950m.
Another steep descent on a maze of eroded trails through juniper and rhododendron leads to a camp site above Phajoding at 3750m. Meditation centres and lhakhangs are scattered across the hillside. The large buildings of Phajoding Goemba are a short distance below the camp. Click here for details of Phajoding Goemba.
Day 6: Phajoding to Motithang
4-5km / 2½ hours / 1130m descent
This day’s trek is all downhill through forest. Descend to the main monastery building at 3640m and start down on a wide trail, passing a Bhutanese chorten (stone Buddhist monument) at 3440m. Just below the chorten there is a trail junction. The trail leading straight goes to Chhokhortse Goemba and the BTC telecom tower, offering an alternative way to end this trek.
The normal route turns right and descends towards Motithang. There are numerous short cuts, but they all eventually lead to the same place. Pass another chorten at 3070m and descend steeply to a stream, crossing it at 2820m. Climb to a rough road and follow it down, skirting around the wooden buildings of the royal bodyguard camp and on to the Motithang youth centre at 2520m.
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DAGALA THOUSAND LAKES TREK
This trek is not difficult and most trekking days are short but there are some long, steep climbs. It is not a popular route, and you will probably encounter no other trekkers.
It’s a 29km drive from Thimphu to the junction of an unpaved road leading to the starting point. It’s best to arrange a 4WD vehicle to drive 8km up the steep, rocky road to a Basic Health Unit (BHU) at Khoma, high above the Geynitsang Chhu at 2850m. It’s another 1km to the small Geynikha primary school where the horses usually wait to meet groups.
The best way to arrange this trek is to drive to the starting point after lunch and then make the short descent to the first camp in the late afternoon.
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THE TREK AT A GLANCE
Duration 6 days
Max Elevation 4720m
Standard Medium
Season April, September to October
Start Geynikha Primary School
Finish Chamgang
Access Town Thimphu
Summary A short trek, near Thimphu, to a large number of lovely, high-altitude lakes (far fewer, however, than the name suggests).
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The recommended times for this trek are April and late September through October. Snow in the high country often blocks the route and makes it necessary to retrace your steps to the starting point.
Day 1: Geynikha to Geynizampa
2km / 1 hour / 150m descent
Start walking along the road, which soon turns uphill towards a Geologic Survey of India mining site in Sisina, high on the hillside above. Leave the road and follow the trail that leads straight and level for about 500m to a chorten overlooking the fields of Geynikha (2950m). Make your way through the picturesque village and head for the ruins of a house on the ridge to the northeast. The route descends to a small stream, the Chhokosen Chhu, and follows it down to a chorten and an excellent camping place in a forest of blue pines alongside the Geynitsang Chhu at 2800m. There are two villages, Zamto and Chhochhenkha, further up the valley, which are the destination for a day hike described in the Royal