Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [172]
Day 2: Geynizampa to Gur
5km / 4 hours / 550m ascent, 60m descent
Crossing a suspension bridge, the trail turns south along the east side of the Geynitsang Chhu (river left) to a side stream, the Dolungu Chhu. Cross the stream on a log bridge and start uphill on an eroded trail through an oak forest. The trail is used only by yak herders, woodcutters and a handful of trekkers, but it was once a major trading route between Thimphu and Dagana, headquarters of Dagana Dzongkhag. This accounts for the walls, well-crafted stone staircases and other developments along portions of the route.
A long climb leads to an outstanding lookout point at 3220m. The climb becomes gentler as it ascends towards the top of the ridge where it makes a hairpin turn at 3350m. Be careful here; the trail to the camp site is an inconspicuous path that leads south through the forest to Gur, some yak pastures in the trees at 3290m.
Day 3: Gur to Labatamba
12km / 5 hours / 1040m ascent, 110m descent
After climbing back from the camp to the main trail the route continues gently up the ridge on a wide track. A long, stiff climb through blue pines leads to a rocky outcrop where the vegetation changes to spruces, dead firs and larches. The trail traverses into a side valley, crosses a stream at 3870m and begins a long, gentle climb through scattered birches and rhododendrons towards the pass, weaving in and out of side valleys and crossing several tiny streams. At Pangalabtsa, a pass marked by cairns at 4250m, there is a spectacular view of the whole Dagala range. This is now yak country and there are numerous herders’ camps scattered across the broad Labatamba valley. Descend from the pass to the first herders’ hut at 4170m and traverse around the head of a small valley to the main valley floor. Climb beside a stream to Labatamba, a camp at 4300m near Utsho Tsho, where there are said to be plenty of golden trout. The high-altitude area near the lakes is a mass of alpine wildflowers in September.
You should schedule an extra day here to walk to the numerous lakes in the vicinity and perhaps do some trout fishing.
Day 4: Labatamba to Panka
8km / 6-7 hours / 260m ascent, 520m descent
There are two possible routes and the pack animals will take the lower one. The trekking route is not well marked and is more of a cross-country traverse. It climbs along the western side of the lake Dajatsho to a saddle at 4520m, where there are good mountain views. If you want a better view, you could scramble to the top of a 4720m peak to the east. From the pass the trail descends past several herders’ camps, then drops to the Dochha Chhu, rejoining the trail at about 4200m. Follow the trail as it climbs over three ridges and descends to Panka at 4000m. Because there is a water problem here during spring, it may be necessary to descend to an alternative camp 20 minutes below.
Day 5: Panka to Talakha
8km / 6-7 hours / 180m ascent, 1100m descent
The route leads north to a crest at 4100m where several trails lead off in different directions. The trail to Talakha climbs steeply up a slate slope to the ruins of a house. It’s then a long traverse to Tale La at 4180m. From here, there is a view of the Dagala range and of Thimphu, far to the north. It is then a long descent through bamboo forests to the goemba (Buddhist monastery) at Talakha (3080m).
Day 6: Talakha to Chamgang
6km / 3 hours / 440m descent
There is a steep, eroded trail that leads to Simtokha, but there are numerous fences surrounding apple orchards along the way and there is no longer a direct route.
You can arrange to have vehicles pick you up at Talakha, but it’s a long, rough, muddy road suitable only for 4WDs. It’s best to walk three hours down the road, with a few short cuts where trails avoid switchbacks, to Chamgang at 2640m and meet your vehicle there.
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JHOMOLHARI TREK
The first three days of this trek follow the Paro Chhu valley to Jangothang, climbing gently, but continually, with a few short, steep