Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [180]
At the bottom there’s a marsh and a fairly messy stream crossing with many little channels to jump across on hummocks of moss, muddy earth and rocks. On the opposite side is a good spot for lunch.
There are yak herders’ huts downstream, but otherwise the valley is uninhabited. The trail now goes quite steeply up the northern side of the valley. At about 4200m it levels and heads into a side valley, passing a couple of yak herders’ huts and traversing high above the valley floor on river right to Chachim, a yak pasture at 4260m.
The camp is in a cluster of brush beside a stream at the bottom of the valley. There is a path that leads directly to the camp from Chachim, but it’s a steep, rough trail with a lot of bushwhacking. A longer, but better, route follows a larger trail that contours up the side of the valley past the camp. You can then drop down a side trail to Shomuthang (4220m).
This deserted spot is not a particularly good camp site but by camping here you get a head start on tomorrow’s pass. If you’re travelling in the opposite direction, you should camp down by the river at Shakshepasa.
Day 8: Shomuthang to Robluthang
18km / 6-7 hours / 700m ascent, 760m descent
The trail climbs from the camp up the valley, starting on river right, crossing to river left and then crossing back again at 4360m. The white flowers are edelweiss and the snow peak visible to the southeast is Kang Bum (6526m).
The trail climbs out of the valley through pretty desolate country to Jhari La (4750m), about two hours from camp. There are four cairns and some prayer flags here. In the distance to the northeast you can see Sinche La, the next obstacle on the route to Laya. The big snow peak to the north is 6840m Gangchhenta (Great Tiger Mountain; ta means tiger). Tserim Kang and the top of Jhomolhari are visible if the weather is clear.
On the north side of the pass the trail switchbacks down to a little stream at 4490m, then becomes a rough, rocky route through rhododendrons on the stream’s left. Soon the vegetation changes to big rhododendrons, birches and firs and there are lots of slippery loose rocks on the trail. There is a pleasant lunch spot at the bottom beside a log bridge and stream at 4050m.
Follow the stream gently downhill through bushes on river left as it makes its way to the main valley. It’s a gradual descent to a meadow by the Jholethang Chhu at 3990m, which you cross on a log bridge that is about 1km upstream. A yak trail leads west up the valley towards Tibet.
There is a camp called Tsheri Jathang by the river. Herds of takin migrate to this valley in summer and remain for about four months. Takins are very disturbed by the presence of other animals. The valley has been declared a special takin sanctuary and yak herders have agreed not to graze their animals in the valley when the takins are here.
The trail climbs steeply on the northern side to a crest at about 4150m. It then traverses into a side valley past a tiny lake. There are good camping places in a rocky meadow named Robluthang at 4160m.
Day 9: Robluthang to Limithang
19km / 6-7 hours / 850m ascent, 870m descent
This is a long, hard day, crossing Sinche La, the last and highest pass on the trek.
Over the hill above the camp is a little stone house where a Laya woman lives. She’ll be happy to sell you trinkets if you are in the mood for shopping; she is also the person responsible for the local arra (spirit) your guide was drinking last night. The trail climbs through the remnants of a burned forest and up the hillside through some boggy patches. It follows a set of steep switchbacks to a shelf at 4390m, then turns into another large glacial side valley. From here the pass looks a long way away – and it is.
Follow a stream for a while, crossing to river right on an icy log bridge at 4470m, then climb onto a moraine and traverse past lots of marmot holes. You may be able to spot blue sheep high on the slopes to the north before