Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [181]
It’s a tough climb from here to the pass because the high altitude will slow you considerably. Passing a false summit with a cairn, the trail levels out a little before reaching some rock cairns and prayer flags on Sinche La (5005m), about five hours from camp. The snow-covered peak of Gangchhenta fills the horizon to the north.
The descent is on a rough, rocky trail that follows a moraine into another glacial valley. Small rocks on the path keep sliding out and threatening to twist your ankle. Eventually you arrive at the Kango Chhu, a stream below a terminal moraine that forms the end of another valley to the west.
Cross the Kango Chhu to river left on a small log bridge at 4470m. A short distance beyond the stream crossing is a yak pasture and camping spot next to a huge rock. It’s best to continue to Limithang to camp; follow the valley northwards, staying high as the stream falls away below you.
The valley from Gangchhenta enters from the northwest and provides more lessons in glaciology. There is a huge terminal moraine and a glacial lake at the foot of the valley. You can see classic examples of lateral moraines where the glacier has pushed rocks up on both sides of the valley.
Beyond an uninhabited stone house the trail starts a steep descent to the valley floor. It switchbacks down with the terminal moraine looming above, crossing the Kango Chhu on a bridge at 4260m. After a short climb through rhododendrons the trail levels out on a plateau above the Zamdo Nangi Chhu. It’s then a short walk on a good trail through a cedar forest interspersed with small meadows to Limithang (4140m), a lovely camp site in a big meadow by the river. The peak of Gangchhenta towers over the camp site, even though it’s quite a distance away.
Day 10: Limithang to Laya
10km / 4-5 hours / 60m ascent, 340m descent
After 20 minutes of walking, the trail crosses to river left and enters a deep cedar forest, crossing many little, muddy side streams. After a while there is a stone herders’ hut with a sod roof; here the vegetation changes to fir trees draped with lichen.
Cross a large stream that flows in from the north and make a steep rocky descent down the side of the valley to the river at 3800m, then cross to river right on a wooden cantilever bridge. A short distance later, cross back and make a stiff climb.
It’s a long walk through the heavily wooded, uninhabited valley. Descend, then cross a waterfall that flows across the trail, then traverse with many small ups and downs. Near a point where you can see a single house on a ridge-top to the east, there is an inconspicuous trail junction. It’s not important which trail you choose: the upper trail leads to the top of Laya, and the other leads to the lower part of the village.
If you take the upper trail you will cross a ridge and see the stone houses and wheat fields of Laya laid out below you with some abandoned houses and a goemba above.
Gangchhenta dominates the skyline to the west of the village and from some places you can get a glimpse of Masang Gang (7165m). In the village centre is a community school, hospital, archery field and the first shop since the Paro valley. You can camp in the fields below the school at 3840m.
Day 11: Laya to Koina
19km / 6-7 hours / 260m ascent, 1070m descent
Layaps are not noted for their reliability and punctuality, and the horses may arrive late. Below the village, the trail drops back to the river. The trail exits the village through a khonying (arch chorten), then passes another chorten at Taje-kha as it descends on a muddy trail to a stream. There are a few houses near the trail, but it’s mostly deep forest all the way to the river.
There is an alternative camping place on a plateau at 3590m, next to the large Togtsherkhagi Chhu, which flows in from the northeast. Cross the river on a wooden bridge and climb to the stone buildings of the army camp on the opposite side. At the army post is a wireless station and a checkpoint where