Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [184]
The trail climbs to another crest and traverses around the top of a side valley to the four houses of Gun at 2400m, then drops again and climbs back up to a chorten. Then it’s a short walk to the large village of Damji (2430m), in a huge side valley with an amphitheatre of rice terraces. Pass the school and traverse to the southern end of the village where there is a large cluster of houses and a little chorten at 2380m. A road from Tashithang is slowly being built towards Damji and is planned to continue on to Gasa, the only dzongkhag headquarters that is not reached by a road.
Day 14: Damji to Tashithang
16km / 5 hours / 250m ascent, 870m descent
Until the road from Tashithang to Damji is complete you’ll have to walk, meeting the road at whatever point the construction has been completed.
Trek past a few more houses and fields as the trail climbs to a chorten at the southern end of Damji. The trail begins a long descent to the river, first winding down gently in the jungle past a few streams, then switchbacking steeply down on a rocky trail in the shadow of a huge rock. After a long descent you will cross a wooden bridge over a side stream at 1960m. There is an alternative camp site here near the banks of the river, about one hour below Damji.
The trail follows the Mo Chhu downstream through forests where you may encounter rhesus monkeys and takins alongside the river. You’ll have to stick close to your guide as he inquires where the route joins the road. At some point you’ll climb from the river to the unfinished road. If you’re lucky, vehicles will be waiting there to take you to Punakha, otherwise you will walk down to Tashithang at 1840m. It’s then an 18km (one-hour) drive to Punakha; it’s a good road, but the first 5km is unpaved.
Return to beginning of chapter
GASA HOT SPRING TREK
Being at a reasonably low elevation, this trek is possible from February to March and October to December. There are leeches in the lower part of the trek, which make it particularly unpleasant during the rainy season.
Day 1: Tashithang to Damji
16km / 5-6 hours / 870m ascent, 250m descent
Follow Day 14 of the Laya–Gasa trek in reverse, driving as far as possible from Tashithang, dropping to the trail and climbing steeply to the terraced rice fields of Damji (2430m).
* * *
THE TREK AT A GLANCE
Duration 5 days
Max Elevation 2430m
Standard Easy
Season February to March, October to December
Start/Finish Tashithang
Access Town Punakha
Summary This trek is the last part of the Laya-Gasa trek in reverse. The hot springs are fun, but there is a lot of climbing to get there.
* * *
Day 2: Damji to Gasa Tsachhu
16km / 4-5 hours / 470m descent
Follow Day 13 of the Laya–Gasa trek in reverse along the side of the valley, then drop to the large stream below Gasa. A trail leads north from here, following the stream directly to the hot spring at 2240m. The Jigme Dorji National Park administers the hot-spring complex and offers various kinds of accommodation in a grove of large birch trees. There are some houses that can be rented, a few buildings that can be used as kitchens, a dormitory and numerous good camping places. It is a pleasant place to spend a day.
The hot springs are by the bank of the stream, below the hotel complex. There are five concrete pools and a shower room. The water temperature is 40°C, which is comfortably warm, but not scalding.
You may encounter women selling souvenirs; it’s mostly Tibetan-style jewellery made in Nepal.
Day 3: A Day at Gasa Tsachhu
You can laze around in the hot springs or take a packed lunch and climb about two hours to Gasa village and the dzong.
Days 4-5: Gasa Tsachhu to Tashithang
Follow Days 13 to 14 of the Laya–Gasa trek and drive back to Punakha or Thimphu.
Return to beginning of chapter