Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [185]
GANGTE TREK
This trek is recommended from March to May and September to November, although it’s usually possible to trek here throughout winter. It is especially beautiful in April, when rhododendrons are in bloom.
Day 1: Phobjikha to Zasa
15km / 6-7 hours / 610m ascent, 410m descent
The trek starts near the village of Tabiting, a short distance up the road from the Dewachen Hotel, just before the Black Mountain National Park warden’s office at 2890m. Follow a wide trail uphill beside a stream that climbs above a fenced-in potato field. Climb through a sparse forest of blue pine to Kelwag, a large meadow of scrub bamboo at 3120m. The climb becomes steeper as it switchbacks up a ridge to a few prayer flags at 3370m. It’s then a gentle ascent through pines and rhododendrons to Tsele La at 3430m.
From the pass the trail descends through scrub bamboo into the huge Kangkha Chhu valley and traverses above a single wooden house at Tsele Pang (3280m). Descend further into a forest of cypress, juniper, rhododendron and daphne to the small village of Tserina at 3120m. There is a trail junction here; if you are in a large group, follow the lower trail to the camping place at Dzomdu Gyakha. The upper route to Gogona crosses two small streams and, after a few minutes, reaches the extensive sheep pastures and potato fields of Gankakha at 3030m. It’s then a long traverse through forests to a few houses at Gogona (3090m).
Gogona Lhakhang is dominated by statues of Chenresig, Atisha and several manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. The walls are covered with elaborate paintings and on the gorikha (porch) is a painting of Lama Drukpa Kunley. Most of the gomchens (lay monks) from Gogona travel to Thimphu for winter.
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THE TREK AT A GLANCE
Duration 3 days
Max Elevation 3480m
Standard Easy
Season March to May, September to November
Start Phobjikha
Finish Tikke Zampa
Access Towns Phobjikha, Wangdue Phodrang
Summary A short trek at relatively low elevations, visiting several remote villages and monasteries.
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Camping is not allowed at the monastery, therefore it’s necessary to trek around the ridge to a large side valley and the pretty village of Dangchu (3040m). The women here weave blankets and speak a different dialect called Bjop-kha (language of the nomads). The usual camping place is near the head of the grassy valley beside a small stream in a yak pasture known as Zasa (3130m). This is a small camping place; larger groups usually camp below in the valley at Dzomdu Gyakha or near the cheese factory at Sha Gagona, a community-based dairy farm that produces Gouda-style cheese.
Day 2: Zasa to Chorten Karpo
16km / 5-7 hours / 450m ascent, 860m descent
An inconspicuous trail leads up the large meadow above Zasa, eventually entering forests on the northwest corner. Climb into a forest of fir, oak, spruce, dwarf rhododendron, miniature azaleas, cypress and juniper. A large area of this forest was burned by a fire that was probably caused by lightning. Much of the undergrowth consists of daphne (the plant used for handmade paper), which may be identified by its sweet-smelling, whitish-cream-coloured flowers. Climb for about two hours to a crest at 3360m high, then again for another 30 minutes to Shobe La, a forested ridge marked by a rock cairn at 3480m. A rocky trail leads down through a forest of cypress, juniper and rhododendron to a clearing at 3270m that offers a good lunch spot.
Descend further on a rocky trail to join a rough forest road at 2970m. The trek from here to the Tashila ropeway strays on and off this road, which is used by tractors to transport the timber harvested in this region. Follow the road across a stream, then through an oak forest, following a few trails that provide short cuts to avoid long loops in the road, eventually arriving at Dolando, an isolated sawmill and several wooden houses at 2790m. The road makes a small detour around a rock that is said to be the remains of a demon. If you look closely you may be able to see the marks left when Guru Rinpoche beat the demon with his