Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [81]
Motithang Takin Preserve
A short distance up the road to the telecom tower is a trail leading to a large fenced area that was originally established as a mini-zoo. The king decided that such a facility was not in keeping with Bhutan’s environmental and religious convictions, and it was disbanded some time ago. The animals were released into the wild but the takins, Bhutan’s national animal, were so tame that they wandered around the streets of Thimphu looking for food, and the only solution was to put them back into captivity. It’s worthwhile taking the time to see these oddball mammals. The best time to see them is early morning when they gather near the fence to feed. It’s a five-minute walk from the road to a viewing area where you can take advantage of a few holes in the fence to take photographs. For more about this curious creature Click here.
Telecom Tower
There’s a wonderful view of Thimphu valley from the hillside below the telecommunications tower (2685m), high above the town at the end of a road that branches off from the approach to the youth centre. The complex also houses the broadcasting studios of Bhutan TV and is festooned with prayer flags. Don’t photograph the telecommunications installation, but the valley is worth a few snaps particularly in the afternoon. The area is known as Sangaygang and the access road attracts fitness fanatics after work and becomes a lovers’ lane after dark.
Royal Academy of Performing Arts
The home of the Royal Dance Troupe is the Royal Academy of Performing Arts (Map; 322569; Chhophel Lam; 8.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri). It provides formal training for masked dancers and also works to preserve Bhutan’s folk-dancing heritage. Unless there’s a practice session on, there’s little to see here. The professional dancers from this school perform several of the dances at the Thimphu tsechu. With advance notice they will provide a one-hour performance for visitors.
Changangkha Lhakhang
This is an old fortresslike temple and monastic school perched on a ridge above Thimphu, southeast of Motithang. It was established in the 12th century on a site chosen by Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who came from Ralung in Tibet. The central statue is Chenresig in an 11-headed, thousand-armed manifestation. There are enormous prayer wheels to spin and even the prayer books in the temple are larger in size than usual Tibetan texts. Don’t leave without taking in the excellent view from the courtyard.
Drubthob Goemba
After you drive down the road from the telecom tower, you will find yourself on Gaden Lam, the road that runs high above the golf course. There are some great views of the town, and of Trashi Chhoe Dzong, and above you can see Drubthob Goemba, which now houses the Zilukha nunnery.
Dechen Phodrang
At the end of Gaden Lam is Dechen Phodrang, the site of Thimphu’s original Trashi Chhoe Dzong (Click here for a brief history). Since 1971 it has housed the state monastic school, and a long procession of monks often travels between here and the dzong. A team of 15 teachers provides an eight-year course to more than 450 students. On any regular day the grounds hum with assorted recitations emanating from the windows. The 12th-century paintings in the goemba’s Guru Lhakhang have been restored and the upper floor features a large figure of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as well as the goenkhang (chapel devoted to protective and terrifying deities). The central figure in the downstairs chapel is the Buddha Sakyamuni.
Zangto Pelri Lhakhang
This private chapel, built in the 1990s by Dasho Aku Tongmi, a musician who composed Bhutan’s national anthem, is south of the weekend market. It’s beside the older Yigja Dungkhar Lhakhang and is a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s celestial abode. It is Bhutan’s tallest lhakhang and houses many large statues, including a 4m-high image of Guru Rinpoche.
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ACTIVITIES
You will probably be too busy sightseeing, trekking or shopping to swim, cycle or go rock