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Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [82]

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climbing, but these activities are available if you want them.

There are two tennis courts, squash courts and a basketball court at the north end of the Changlimithang Stadium.

Golf

The Royal Thimphu Golf Club (Map; 325429; www.golfbhutan.com; Chhophel Lam; green fees & club hire per day US$50) has a nine-hole course beautifully situated above Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Indian Brigadier General TV Jaganathan, posted in Bhutan between 1968 and 1973, got permission from King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck to construct a few holes. The king later granted permission to expand the course to nine holes, recognising that it would provide an attractive green area adjacent to Trashi Chhoe Dzong. The course was formally inaugurated in 1971 as the Royal Thimphu Golf Club.

Caddies are available for Nu 200 to 300, but since they are mostly schoolboys, they are usually not on site until late afternoon. You can buy lost balls from kids for Nu 20 to 50. You don’t need to make an appointment to play, but weekends are busy and you may have to wait to tee off.

Cycling

The Bhutan Bicycle Club (Map; 321905; www.bhutanmtb.com; Clocktower Sq) organises rides and has bikes for hire (US$30 per day, including helmet). A helmet is required within Thimphu city limits and, of course, is highly recommended elsewhere. The club can arrange to have you and the bike transported to the start of several rides (Click here for more information).

Rock Climbing

Bhutan’s only rock-climbing club, Vertical Bhutan ( 322966; verticalbhutan@hotmail.com), gathers most weekends to climb on The Nose, a rock face high above the southwest part of Thimphu. There are several prepared routes with names such as ‘Wedding Present’ and ‘Reach and Preach’. Contact the club via email or call the club secretary, Dilu Giri, for the climbing schedule.

Swimming

You can swim in the pool at Thimphu’s Sports Complex (Map; 322064; Doebum Lam; Nu 50; 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Feb-Nov). There is also a basketball court and gym.


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WALKING TOUR

A young city, Thimphu is not crowded with historical sights but its size makes it ideal for a wander, turning into lanes and following your nose. It’s impossible to get lost; if you get confused just head downhill towards the river and you will soon come across something you recognise. map.

For a slightly strenuous excursion, start at Clocktower Square (1), head up the stairs to Norzin Lam and turn north to reach the traffic circle (2) with the arm-snapping police. Walk uphill along Chorten Lam past the Art Café (3; Click here) – why not drop in for excellent coffee and cake – to observe the circumambulations of the National Memorial Chorten (4; Click here). Backtrack along Chorten Lam and turn left at Jangchhub Lam, which takes you north to the rather neglected Doma Lhakhang (5) and Thai Pavillion (6). Head down a footpath (northeast) to Doendrup Lam, and turn left towards bustling Hong Kong Market (7) and, after perusing the shops, take the narrow alley lined with vegetable sellers to Norzin Lam. From here it’s an easy stroll downhill back to Clocktower Sq or turn left and continue up Norzin Lam past the Handicrafts Emporium (8; Click here) to the National Textile Museum (9; Click here), both worthwhile detours. Head back south down Norzin Lam and drop into the opulent Taj Tashi Hotel (10; Click here) to check out the ambience, restaurants and bars. Continue east along Samtem Lam to Chang Lam and then further east down Dungkhar Lam to the market area, which has permanent shops but really comes to life during the Weekend Market (11;). Head along Chhogyel Lam while keeping an eye out at Changlimithang Stadium (12; Click here) for any sport activity before heading back along Chang Lam to Clocktower Sq.


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COURSES

Some Bhutanese tour companies offer specific tours to cater for special-interest groups, such as bird-watchers, and it is by no means impossible to organise instructive courses in cooking, religion, meditation etc, which can be worked into your itinerary. Of course you will need

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