Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [96]
On the road beside Ugyen Pelri Palace are five square chortens that were built in memory of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck.
CHHOETEN LHAKHANG
The tower-like Chhoeten Lhakhang is south of the town square. The caretaker may allow you to visit the upstairs chapel, which features a central Jowo Sakyamuni, with Guru Rinpoche and Chenresig to the side.
DRUK CHOEDING
Also known as Tshongdoe Naktshang, the quiet and peaceful Druk Choeding is the town temple. It was built in 1525 by Ngawang Chhogyel (1465–1540), one of the prince-abbots of Ralung in Tibet and an ancestor of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The main statue is of a seated Jampa (Future Buddha). Also present is the Bhutanese protector deity Gyenyen (Click here), surrounded by a fearsome collection of old Bhutanese shields and weapons.
DUMTSE LHAKHANG
To the west of the road is Dumtse Lhakhang, an unusual chorten-like temple that was built in 1433 by the iron-bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo (boxed text). Its three floors represent hell, earth and heaven, and the murals inside are said to be some of the finest in Bhutan. It’s essential to bring a good torch. Your travel agency will need to get a special permit to visit the interior so mention this in advance.
Beyond Dumtse Lhakhang, to the east of the road, the tiny privately-maintained Puna Lhakhang is said to date from the seventh century.
SUNDAY MARKET
Paro’s weekly vegetable market isn’t all that expansive but it’s a fine introduction to some of Bhutan’s unique local products. You’ll see strings of chugo (dried yak cheese), either white (boiled in milk and dried in the sun) or brown (smoked). The fruit that looks like an orange egg is actually fresh husky betel nut, imported from India. The jars of pink paste contain lime, which is ingested with the betel nut. There are also exotic-looking ferns, powdered juniper incense, squares of dried jellied cow skin known as khoo (a local snack!) and slabs of datse, the cheese used in almost every Bhutanese dish. The market is busiest between 6.30am and 10am.
Sleeping
Most of Paro’s accommodation options were built before the town was developed and are in resort-style hotels scattered around the valley, not in the town itself. Most hotels increase their rates significantly during the spring Paro Tsechu, when every hotel and even many local farmhouses are full to bursting point. Some hotels stage dance performances around a campfire when there are enough guests to warrant it.
BUDGET
Several small hotels near the town square cater to Bhutanese and Indian clientele, including the Hotel Urgyen Pelri (Map; s/d Nu 250/350) and the basic five-roomed Zamling Hotel ( 271302; s/d 400/600), which offers private bathrooms but no hot water.
Hotel Peljorling (Map; 271365; s/d Nu 750/850) Operated by the same group as the Peljorling in Phuentsholing, this four-room local-style hotel and restaurant is in the centre of town. The mattresses are thin.
Hotel All Seasons (Map; 271295; s/d with common bathroom Nu 350/450, with bathroom Nu 550/650 ) Gets a few late-booking tourists during tsechu time.
MIDRANGE
Dechen Hill Resort (Map; 271392; dchncot@druknet.bt; www.dechenhillresort.com; Geptey; old rooms s/d Nu 1300/1600, new rooms s/d Nu 1500/1800) This hotel, in a secluded area below the road and 2km from the centre, is a favourite with expats. It’s not flash but the Indian food is some of the best in Bhutan and the new block has good valley views. A pair of friendly dogs adds to the homey atmosphere.
Hotel Jor-Yang’z (Map; 271747; joryangz@druknet.bt; Geptey; standard s/d Nu 1400/1800, deluxe s/d 1600/2000, ste 3500; ) Next door and similar, this friendly modern place has good staff,