Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [97]
Gangtey Palace Hotel (Map; 271301; hgpp@druknet.bt; s/d cottage Nu 1000/1200, standard s/d 1700/2200, deluxe s/d 2200/2500) This 19th-century, traditional Bhutanese courtyard-style building was once the residence of the penlop of Paro and it oozes musty historical charm. The spacious deluxe rooms in the main tower come with creaking wooden staircases and a few antique pieces. The comfortable modern main block rooms are not as exotic but you can get a more traditional flavour by spurning the shower and arranging for a hot-stone bath (Nu 650). The views from the restaurant balcony are great and there’s a cosy bar. Outside the gate is the small Gangten Lhakhang.
Hotel Samden Chholing (Map; 271449; samden_choling@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1400) Opened in 1999, the simple Samden Chholing has a family feel, with rooms in the main Bhutanese-style building or in the modern block below. You can follow your hot-stone bath (Nu 350) with drinks or dinner on the basic terrace overlooking Paro.
Kichu Resort (Map; 271468; intkichu@druknet.bt; www.intrektour.com; s/d Nu 1800/2400, deluxe s/d Nu 2250/3000) Just 700m past the Kyichu Lhakhang and 5.5km away from Paro, this collection of concrete cottages on the banks of the Paro Chhu is popular with trekking groups, Indian tourists and expats from Thimphu looking for a weekend getaway. There’s a quiet rural air but the rooms and grounds could do with some freshening up. The deluxe rooms are worth the extra money.
Pelri Cottages (Map; 272473; s/d Nu 1800/2000, deluxe s/d 2000/2500) On a hill above the Olathang Hotel, the Pelri is a low-key collection of concrete cottages and rooms, with a private stupa on site. Rooms are decorated with carved wood and Tibetan carpets to give a cosy feel and the small wooden balconies are pleasant.
Mandala Resort (Map; 271997; mandala@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1500) A steep paved road winds its way up to this small concrete block below the Olathang Hotel. Upper-storey rooms come with a balcony, and the dining room offers great views of the valley. Run by the travel company Bhutan Mandala Tours, it’s more home-style than glamour.
Valley View (Map; 272541; valleyview@druknet.bt; attic rooms s/d Nu 1200/1500, s/d Nu 2000/2500; ) Bizarrely, none of the rooms in this superbly located new hotel actually takes advantage of the touted views! Apart from this criminal lack of foresight, the pine-clad rooms are comfortable and there’s a cosy bar and restaurant. The pokey third-floor attic rooms won’t do for anyone over 6ft tall. It’s on the road to Paro Dzong.
Tiger Nest Resort (Map; 271310; fax 271640; 9km from Paro; s/d Nu 1300/1500) Just past the turn-off to Taktshang in the upper valley, this small resort is the only one with a view of Taktshang Goemba (Click here) and, on clear days, the snow-capped peak of Jhomolhari. It has 15 cosy rooms in four cottages, with a restaurant accessed by a private bridge.
Other decent tourist hotels in the valley include Rinchen Ling Lodge (Map; 1711 1503; nawangd@druknet.bt), Namsey Choling Resort (Map; 272080; namseyresort@druknet.bt) and Pegyel Hotel ( 271472; fax 272769; s/d Nu 1200/1500), in a rural setting among rice fields in Shaba, 9km from Paro town.
TOP END
Olathang Hotel (Map; 271304; ohotel@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1625/2000, cottage s/d Nu 2125/2500, deluxe cottage s/d Nu 3000/3500; ) This grand dzong-like hotel was built in 1974 for guests invited to the coronation of the present king and, though getting on a bit, it still maintains a whiff of that grandeur. The main building rooms are set around a lovely interior courtyard and come with elaborate Victorian furniture. Look for the stuffed yak guarding the entrance to the conference hall. For comfortable facilities in a traditional setting, ask to stay in one of the tastefully decorated wooden cottages. Always bustling with groups, it’s now managed by the Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited (BTCL).
Uma Paro (Map; 271597; www.uma.como.bz; superior/deluxe r US$280/450, ste US$575-1200;