Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [98]
Zhiwa Ling (Map; 271277; www.zhiwaling.com; s/d from US$180/200) This impressive new luxury place, 8km from Paro, consists of an echoing, central lodge surrounded by a collection of stern-looking stone towers. It’s certainly grand but it’s not yet all that cosy, despite some nice antique touches, underfloor heating, a spa (Thai, Shiatsu and Swedish massage) and even a temple on the 2nd floor, built with pillars from the Gangtey Palace. Bizarrely, they manufacture fishing flies here for export to the US. It’s 3km past the Kichu Resort.
Amankora Paro Lodge (Map; 272333; www.amanresorts.com; s/d full board US$925/1000; ) ‘Designer dzong’ is the architectural theme here, with the half-dozen sleek and severe rammed-earth buildings calling to mind the elite campus of the world’s coolest university. The rooms benefit from calming natural woods and home-spun fabrics, an open-plan bathroom, bukhari (traditional Bhutanese stove) and divan. The spa has a wide range of treatments (book in advance) and there’s an intimate restaurant and reading room. It’s certainly sleek and stylish but you can’t help but feel a bit disconnected from your surroundings out here. The resort is in pine forest near Balakha village, 14km from Paro and not far from Drukyel Dzong. The tax alone is US$289 a night!
Eating
Most tourists eat dinner in their hotels but you can ask to try the following for lunch.
Sonam Trophel Restaurant (Map; 271287) Upstairs, Sonam has excellent home-style Bhutanese cooking adapted to foreign tastes (ie without the chilli) and is popular with small groups. Momos (dumplings) are a speciality at Nu 25 to 40 and the shamu datse (mushroom, cheese and chilli) is excellent. No MSG is used here.
Chharo Restaurant (Map; 272642) This pleasant tourist restaurant (chharo means friendship) has a good range of Indian, Chinese and Bhutanese dishes and can prepare Bumthang-style buckwheat pancakes and noodles with some advance warning. The owner is very accommodating.
Two other good local restaurants that are above shops along the main street are Travellers Restaurant (Map; 271896) and Hotel All Seasons (Map; 271295), both with dishes from Nu 30 to Nu 70. The Peljorling Hotel (Map) also has a good wide-ranging menu, including fried fish and even baked beans!
You can load up on local bread and pastries at the Jachung Milk Bakery (Map). Jachung means ‘garuda’.
Entertainment
Club K (Map; 271287; cover women/men Nu 100/200, beer Nu 80; from 9pm) Check out another of Bhutan’s many faces at this swanky basement nightclub, which boasts a bouncer (normally it’s the female owner, Sonam), a mirrorball and a fairly upper crust crowd. Ladies get in for free on Wednesdays. The Sonam Troephel Hotel is being built above the club.
Millennium Club (Map; 271934; cover Nu 200; from 10pm Sat) You’re more likely to get chatting to locals at this older local disco, normally open Saturday nights only.
Shopping
There are numerous handicraft shops throughout the valley and most open daily and take credit cards. Chencho Handicrafts (Map; 271633), on the corner of the town square, has probably the most interesting selection. Made in Bhutan (Map; 272886) is a slick operation, with a wide selection of crafts.
The government-run Handicrafts Emporium (Map; 271211; 9am-1pm, 2-6pm), on the main street, has books and modern souvenirs at tourist prices.
There are several interesting local shops. Deki Dem Shop (Map) and Lam Tshering Dirji General Shop (Map),