Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [1]
Cooking is second nature for most Italians. Even though certain guidelines are important, there is no place in Italian cooking for rigid rules or formulas.The love of cooking and eating is reflected in everyday life. Shopping is generally done daily to assure the freshest possible ingredients. Great care is taken in the selection of these ingredients. The Italian cook takes her daily meals seriously. By 11 A.M. she is preparing a sauce or a ragù to be served over pasta at 1 P.M. The country shuts down daily at 12:30 P.M. every day. Italians jump into their cars and fight the chaotic city traffic to reach their homes in order to enjoy lunch, the most important meal of the day, with their families.
Serving a meal properly is almost as important as cooking it well. In an Italian meal, portions are generally small. Pasta, soup, risotto or gnocchi is served as a first course. A small portion of meat or fish with some vegetables follows.Then a simple salad is served dressed with a bit of olive oil and vinegar. Fresh fruit and espresso might end the meal. Desserts are only served on special occasions.
The evening meal is generally much lighter. Often it consists of a clear broth soup, followed by a bit of fish or meat or by a salad and perhaps some cheese.
Today, more than ever, Italian cooking is at everyone’s fingertips because of the availability of Italian ingredients. Extra-virgin olive oils, cheeses, wild mushrooms, rice, sun-dried tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, prosciutto and great factory-made pasta, can be found almost anywhere. Keep in mind that Italian cuisine is a skillful blending of ingredients that complement each other. Once you have done that, you will have mastered the art of Italian cooking.
Some Basic Ingredients
Because Italian cuisine is basically simple, each ingredient plays a very important role. Certain dishes cannot be made without a specific ingredient and still be considered authentic. While many ingredients are vital, I also realize that some are often unavailable in smaller towns. I urge you to go the extra mile to find an important ingredient and to substitute only if you must.
BASIL: Fresh basil is probably the most popular Italian herb. The only substitute is home-preserved basil. Basil leaves can be preserved between layers of coarse salt in tightly sealed jars. They lose some of their green color, but retain the favor. Basil can also be preserved in olive oil.
BROTH: Broth is an important ingredient in Italian cooking. Risotto, for example, cannot be made without it. Broth is also used in sauces, stews and braised meats. Make large batches and freeze it.
BUTTER: Butter is widely used in Northern Italy. It is preferred for cooking instead of olive. I prefer to use unsalted butter.
FONTINA CHEESE: Fontina is a delicious cheese from Piedmont. Its delicate flavor enhances many Italian dishes. Substitute with stronger-flavored Danish fontina only if absolutely necessary.
GARLIC: Garlic is widely used in Italian cooking, but it should not be abused. Many dishes that call for garlic need only a hint of it. Choose a large head of garlic with firm, unwrinkled cloves.
GORGONZOLA CHEESE: This blue-vein cheese comes from Lombardy. Gorgonzola is pungent with a creamy consistency. Substitute blue cheese, preferably Oregon Blue, only if absolutely necessary.
MARSALA WINE: The best Marsala wine comes from Marsala in Sicily. Dry and sweet types are available. Use dry Marsala for cooking. Its aromatic flavor is essential to many dishes. American Marsala wine is sweeter than the Italian and should be used with discretion. Substitute dry sherry if Marsala is unavailable.
MOZZARELLA CHEESE: One of Italy’s favorite cheeses, the best mozzarella is made from the curd of water-buffalo milk. It is generally stored in water and does not keep very long. It has a creamy and delicate taste. Substitute domestic mozzarella.
OIL FOR FRYING: For deep-frying use any light-flavored vegetable oil.
OLIVE OIL: In choosing an olive oil, look for a nice green color and a pleasing