Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [2]
PANCETTA: Pancetta is the same cut of pork as bacon. It is cured with salt and is not smoked. It comes rolled up like a large salami. Widely used in Italian cooking, especially in Emilia-Romagna, it is vital to many dishes. If available, buy a large quantity, cut into several pieces and freeze it.You can substitute domestic bacon for pancetta, but it must be blanched in boiling water for two to three minutes to reduce the smoky flavor. Fresh side pork can also be used.
PARMESAN CHEESE: Italian cuisine would not be the same without this cheese. Parmesan is produced in an area between Parma and Reggio-Emilia. It is made under strict regulations. When buying Parmesan, look for Parmigiano Reggiano stamped on the crust. The cheese should be straw-yellow and crumbly and moist inside. It is expensive, but a little goes a long way. Buy a small piece and grate only what you need. Wrap the remaining cheese tightly in foil and store in the refrigerator. Domestic Parmesan is subject to different standards and not aged as long. If necessary, domestic Parmesan can be used. Do not use the grated Parmesan sold at the supermarket unless you have no other choice.
PARSLEY: If available, use the large, flat-leaf Italian parsley. Parsley is widely used in Italian cooking. It is a good source of vitamins A and C and also iron.
PROSCIUTTO: Prosciutto is uncooked, unsmoked ham. It is salted, air-cured and aged a minimum of one year. Italian prosciutto is usually much sweeter than the American counterpart. Prosciutto is widely used in Italian cooking and as an antipasto. Domestic prosciutto is an acceptable substitute.
RICE: Italian rice is short and thick-grained. It is perfect for risotto. Imported Italian rice such as arborio is available in Italian groceries and specialty stores. California short-grain pearl rice can be substituted for arborio.
RICOTTA CHEESE: Domestic ricotta is acceptable. It has a creamier consistency than Italian ricotta and is more watery. Never substitute cottage cheese for ricotta.
ROSEMARY: Rosemary is deliciously aromatic. It is excellent with roasts or in marinades. Dried rosemary is perfectly acceptable.
SAGE: Sage is at its best when used with poultry and game. Use dried sage sparingly because its strong flavor can be overwhelming.
TOMATOES: There is no doubt that a sauce made from meaty sun-ripened tomatoes is unbeatable. Good-quality canned tomatoes make a good substitute. If possible, choose an imported Italian variety. If using domestic canned plum tomatoes, try several brands to find one that suits your taste.
VINEGAR: Use a good, unflavored wine vinegar.
WILD ITALIAN MUSHROOMS: These are one of the glorious elements in Italian gastronomy. They grow under chestnut trees and are abundant in the fall and spring. Drying wild mushrooms preserves their distinctive flavor. Dried wild Italian mushrooms are available in Italian groceries and gourmet stores.
WINE: If a wine is good enough to drink, it is good enough for cooking. Do not use cheap wine for cooking because the flavor of the dish can be altered by the quality of the wine.
Appetizers
Antipasto means “before the pasta.” In the daily family meals, antipasti do not play a very important role. When people entertain or dine out in restaurants, antipasti become the exciting prelude to a special meal. At home, a simple antipasto generally consists of a few slices of sweet prosciutto or local salami, served with ripe cantaloupe or figs. Prosciutto and melon are the ideal antipasto because they make a light and delicate combination.
An antipasto should never be overpowering in flavor or quantity. It should only tease the palate, leaving you with a desire for more.The same rule