Biba's Northern Italian Cooking - Biba Caggiano [3]
In Italy, the best place to see antipasti displayed is in a restaurant. Italians believe that first you eat with your eyes, then with your palate. This is especially true in an Italian restaurant where antipasti are arranged on a large table or appetizer cart. One look at those mouthwatering presentations and your willpower is washed away. Even in the indulgence of a special evening, don’t forget the meal that will follow. Select an antipasto that will complement rather than overpower the meal.
Italian antipasti are extremely versatile.They often originate in the imagination of a good cook rather than the pages of a cookbook. Carefully selected antipasti can be served as summer buffets, late suppers or for an impromptu gathering of friends and family. An array of fresh vegetables dipped in olive oil and lemon can either start or end a meal. A cold meat dish such as Cold Veal in Tuna Sauce, page 154, is equally acceptable as an antipasto or an elegant main course.
Most antipasti in this book can be prepared in very little time with a minimum of effort. Some can be prepared ahead. Feel free to improvise. Pay particular attention to the presentation and your meal will be off to a perfect start.
GRILLED PORCINI CAPS
Porcini alla Griglia
In spring and fall when wild mushrooms abound, fresh porcini in Italy are everywhere. These mushrooms with their nut-brown color and meaty caps, are most delicious when grilled, basted simply with extra-virgin olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. If you can’t find porcini, look for large capped portobello or portabella, and grill them as you would porcini.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1½ pounds fresh porcini mushrooms, or portabella mushrooms
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf Italian parsley, combined with 1 small garlic clove, finely minced
Preheat grill or an outdoor barbecue.
Remove stalks of mushrooms and dark gills and discard. Clean mushrooms thoroughly with a damp towel. Brush mushroom caps on both sides with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Place caps on hot grill and cook, turning them a few times and brushing them with oil, until they are tender, approximately 7 to 8 minutes.
Place caps on individual serving dishes, sprinkle them with parsley and garlic and drizzle with a bit more oil. Serve hot.
PIETRO’S MORTADELLA MOUSSE
La Spuma di Mortadella di Pietro
Pietro was for many years the chef of Diana, the most venerable restaurant of Bologna. Every time I had dinner there he would bring to the table a small plate of mortadella crostini. Now that mortadella has finally been imported in this country, I can prepare these crostini and serve them before dinner, with a nice glass of chilled white wine or aperitif.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
½ pound piece mortadella
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
¼ pound ricotta cheese
Salt to taste
⅓ cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or low-sodium canned
½ cup heavy cream, whipped
12 to 14 slices firm-textured white bread
Cut mortadella into pieces and place in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until mortadella is very finely chopped. Add Parmigiano and ricotta and season lightly with salt. With motor running pour in broth through feed tube until mortadella is completely pureed and mixture is thoroughly blended. Place mixture in a medium bowl and fold in cream.
Transfer mousse into a small, attractive serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Leave mousse about 1 hour at room temperature before serving.
To serve, preheat oven to 400F (205C). Lightly oil a baking sheet. Trim crust from bread and cut each slice of bread with a 2-inch-round cookie cutter, or cut