Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [19]
DREAMING OF BONES
Dreaming of bones is not the portent of doom you might expect. According to books on the interpretation of dreams, bones represent hidden secrets. Dreaming of whole bones is said to mean you possess a hidden strength. Broken bones, though, may indicate an underlying weakness in your thinking or plans. While I was writing this book, my dreams were always about bones cooking in pots. No interpretation necessary.
Osso Buco with Fennel and Blood Orange Sauce
Osso means bone and buco means hole in Italian. This term osso buco is usually applied to pieces of veal shank, but osso buco can come from many animals. Although literally translated the name means hollow bone, these bones are full of marrow.
Veal shanks have more flavor and texture than a veal chop, plus there is the luscious marrow bone. The blood oranges add great color and berry-like depth of flavor to the sauce. Their season is short, though, so don’t hesitate to make this dish with regular oranges instead. In the traditional Italian kitchen, osso buco is served with gremolata, a mixture of chopped parsley, garlic, and lemon zest, but I’ve replaced the lemon zest with blood orange zest and used fennel leaves instead of parsley. If you don’t own a Dutch oven large enough to hold the veal in a single layer, with space for the vegetables, brown the veal in a frying pan, then transfer it to a large baking dish.
Four 1½ to 2-inch (4- to 5-cm)-thick pieces veal shank, about 12 ounces (350 g) each
2 tablespoons flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 cup (250 ml) White Veal Stock (page 13)
2 blood oranges
1 large fennel bulb with leaves
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut in 2 x ¾-inch (5 x 2-cm) batons
1 cup (250 ml) blood orange juice (from about 3 oranges)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1.Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Pat the veal dry. With kitchen scissors, cut completely through the membrane surrounding each veal shank piece in two places to prevent the meat from curling as it cooks. Tie a piece of string around each shank to hold the meat in place while it is cooking. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Dredge the veal shanks in the flour, shaking off the excess.
2.In a large Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the veal and brown on both sides, then transfer to a plate. Discard the fat from the pot, and pour in the vinegar and stock. Bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Remove the pot from the heat.
3.Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest in long strips from 1 orange and add to the pot; reserve the orange. Return the veal shanks to the pot, with the wider end of the bone facing up (this helps keep the marrow from escaping). Cover with a damp piece of parchment paper, then the lid, and braise in the oven for 45 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, remove the feathery leaves from the fennel—you should have ⅓ cup (75 ml); set aside. Trim any coarse stalks or outside layers. Cut the fennel lengthwise in half, then cut into ½-inch (5-mm) slices.
5.After the veal has cooked for 45 minutes, add the fennel, carrots, orange juice, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, covered with the paper and lid, for another 45 to 55 minutes, or until the veal is very tender and the vegetables are cooked. Transfer the veal, fennel, and carrots to a serving platter. Remove the strings from the veal and keep warm, loosely covered with aluminum foil.
6.Discard the orange peel and bring the cooking juices to a boil; boil hard for 5 minutes to reduce the sauce. Meanwhile, grate the zest of the remaining orange and place it in a small bowl, with the fennel seeds. Remove the pith from the 2 zested oranges and cut them into segments (see page 191). Add the segments to the sauce and check the seasoning. Keep warm.
7.Finely chop the reserved fennel leaves. Add the fennel leaves