Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [20]
Variations
ο Replace the orange juice with dry white wine, and use lemon zest instead of orange zest.
ο Replace the fennel with 12 ounces (350 g), about 4, skinned, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes, and use the chopped parsley, garlic, and orange zest in the gremolata, omitting the fennel seeds.
Veal Shank with Sage and Mustard
The popularity of osso buco means that we usually see our veal shanks cut into thick slices. Here the shank is cooked whole. I know the measurements of my Dutch oven, and I take my tape measure to the store. There my butcher saws off a piece of the bone (from the end where there is less meat) so the shank fits my Dutch oven, and this also enables me to get at the marrow inside the bone. Ask the butcher to cut the tendons free from this end of the bone too. This will allow the meat to shrink away from the bone as it cooks. When it is cooked, the meat will have gathered at one end of the bone.
1 veal shank, trimmed as described above, about 3 pounds (1.35 kg)
2 tablespoons flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot
12 sage leaves
½ cup (125 ml) White Veal Stock (page 13)
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
1 tablespoon heavy (35%) whipping cream
1.One hour before cooking, remove the shank from the refrigerator and pat dry. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Season the flour with salt and pepper, then dredge the shank in the flour, shaking off any excess.
2.In a large Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Brown the shank on all sides. Transfer to a plate, and discard the fat from the pot. Pour the wine into the pot and bring to a boil, deglazing the pot by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Add the garlic, shallot, and 6 of the sage leaves. Return the shank to the pot, and cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and then the lid. Braise in the oven for 1 hour.
3.Turn the shank, add the veal stock, and cook for another 1½ to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, almost falling off the bone. Carefully lift the shank out of the pot, transfer it to a platter, and keep warm, loosely covered with aluminum foil.
4.Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring the cooking liquid to a boil, scraping the sides of the pot. Boil until the liquid is reduced to ½ cup (125 ml). Meanwhile, cut the remaining 6 sage leaves into julienne.
5.Stir the mustard and cream into the sauce, add the sage, and check the seasonings. Pour the sauce over the veal. To serve, cut off big chunks of meat—you will be able to do this with a spoon. The marrow will slide out of the bone; don’t forget to serve it.
Roasted Marrow Bones
This is the dish that started me on my bones journey. Scooping out the soft, warm marrow and spreading it on crisp toast is a sensual delight. A touch of salt, and all is right with the world. I suggest two marrow bones per person, since it is a very rich dish—but I could easily eat all eight. Marrow bones are cut from the shank bones of beef and veal; ask your butcher for bones cut from the center of the shank so the portion of marrow to bone will be higher and the marrow easier to extract.
Serve the bones French style, with only fleur de sel, or English style, with the parsley salad. Use good rustic bread for the toast. And plan ahead, as the bones must be soaked for 12 to 24 hours to remove any traces of blood.
8 veal or beef marrow bones, about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long (see the headnote)
Kosher salt Vegetable oil
Parsley salad (recipe follows), optional
8 slices rustic bread
Fleur de sel
1.Place the bones in a bowl of ice water to cover, add 2 tablespoons salt, and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water 4 to 6 times and adding 2 more tablespoons salt to the water each time.
2.Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Drain the bones and pat dry.