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By Root 418 0

today most lambs have their tails docked and what’s left is removed at the abattoir. At a good butcher’s you can find lamb’s ankles, which contain the metatarsal bones. (These are left on after slaughter to prevent the meat from shrinking up the leg and are used to suspend the carcass.) Add them to your stock—they will increase its gelatin content and give it a velvety texture. These are the bones are used for the game knucklebones (see page 117).

Thou wons’t my money too,

with a pair of base bones.

—JOHN FLETCHER.

Rule of a Wife (1624)

Lamb Cooking Temperatures

Use an instant-read thermometer to check for doneness. And remember that when the meat is resting, the temperature will continue to rise by up to 5°F (2°C). Lamb is juicier and more flavorful roasted rare or medium-rare. When braising, cook lamb until fork tender and almost falling off the bone.

Rare 135°F(57°C)

Medium-rare 140°F(60°C)

Medium 150°F(65°C)

Medium-well 155°F(68°C)

Bone turquoise or odontolite is

a bright blue mineral formed

from a fossil bone or tooth.

Bonewood, also called cheese

wood, is a yellowish white

wood from Australasia.

Portion Size

Imported lamb can be smaller than domestic, so they yield smaller cuts. About 12 ounces (350 g) of meat on the bone per person is a good guide. With fattier cuts like shoulder, though, you should increase the amounts per person.

Mutton and Goat

If you do come across mutton, try it in the more highly flavored braised dishes. Goat is becoming more available in our markets, and young goat makes an excellent substitute for lamb in any recipe. It is butchered like lamb so the cuts are identical but are leaner and smaller.

Lamb Stock

There is a widespread perception that lamb stock is greasy and strong, but while lamb stock may not be as versatile as veal or chicken, a good one makes great soups and adds depth to slow-cooked lamb dishes.

As with any other stock, the fat will rise to the surface as the stock cools. But lamb fat can remain quite soft, making it more difficult to remove. Leave the skin on the onion; it adds color to the stock.

4½ pounds (2 kg) lamb bones and trimmings, cut into 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) pieces

1 large onion, unpeeled, cut into wedges

1 large carrot, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 leek, trimmed and quartered lengthwise 1 garlic head, separated into cloves

3 flat-leaf parsley stems

1 bay leaf

1 large thyme sprig

1 rosemary sprig

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

Kosher salt, optional

1. Rinse the bones well under cold running water and place them in a large stockpot, along with the onion, carrot, celery, leek, garlic, parsley, bay leaf, thyme, and rosemary. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bones, about 12 cups (31), and bring slowly to a boil. As soon as the stock begins to boil reduce the heat so that it simmers. Using a soup ladle, skim off any scum that has risen to the surface (rotate its bowl on the surface of the stock to make ripples: these will carry the scum to the edges of the pot and you can then use the ladle to lift it off)- Add the peppercorns and simmer, uncovered, for 5 hours, skimming from time to time.

2. Strain the stock through a sieve into a large bowl. Discard the debris left in the sieve, and cool the stock quickly by placing the bowl in a larger bowl or sink filled with ice water; stir occasionally as it cools. When you taste this stock, you will notice that something is missing—the salt. Once you add it, the flavor will sparkle. But it was deliberately left out so that you can reduce the stock, if desired, without any fear that it will become too salty. If you are not reducing the stock (see page 96), add about 1 teaspoon salt.

3. Refrigerate the stock for 6 hours, or overnight, to allow the fat to rise to the top of the stock and the debris to sink to the bottom. Remove the fat before using (and discard the debris at the bottom of the bowl). Divide into i-cup (250-ml) quantities and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Concentrated Lamb Stock

If your freezer space is