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6 cups (1.51) unsalted Lamb Stock (page 95)

Kosher salt

The reduced stock will become syrupy and turn the color of freshly pressed apple cider.

Lamb and Barley Soup

This soup started as a Scotch broth, an homage to my roots, but then it took on a life of its own. Once you have the lamb stock and barley, the choice of vegetables is up to you and the time of year. Carrots, rutabaga, and spinach are good in the winter, while green peas, favas, and asparagus tips are perfect in the spring. Cooking the barley separately means it doesn’t drink up all your stock.

¼ cup (45 g) pearl barley

Kosher salt

3 cups (750 ml) Lamb Stock (page 95)

1 medium turnip, peeled and diced

1 leek, trimmed and sliced

1 cup (250 ml) finely shredded Savoy cabbage

1 medium tomato, diced

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Rinse the barley, then place it in a small saucepan with 1 cup (250 ml) water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, for 30 to 35 minutes, until the barley is tender but firm. Remove the saucepan from heat and set aside, covered. As it stands, the barley will absorb the remaining water.

2. Pour the lamb stock into a large saucepan, add the turnip and leek, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer gently, covered, until the turnip is cooked, about 10 minutes.

3. Stir in the cooked barley, cabbage, tomato, and salt and return to a boil; remove from the heat. Add the thyme, lemon juice, and black pepper to taste and serve.

Lamb and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Jerusalem artichokes may taste like artichoke, but they are really a relative of the sunflower. The explorer Samuel de Champlain ate them during his travels in Canada, and wrote home about their artichoke-like flavor, beginning the confusion. Why they were linked to Jerusalem is less clear. One suggestion is that it is an English corruption of the Italian word for sunflower, girasole. Today they are often called sunchokes and their earthy flavor matches well with lamb stock. Once you have the stock on hand in the freezer, soup is easy to make and you can often create something out of almost nothing: diced vegetables, some cooked rice or pasta. Fresh herbs are always a good addition, along with a little lemon juice, to highlight all the flavors.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup (250 ml) diced fennel

1 cup (250 ml) peeled, diced Jerusalem artichokes

3 cups (750 ml) Lamb Stock (page 95)

1 cup (250 ml) fresh or frozen peas

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

A little freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (60 ml) chopped chives

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the fennel and artichokes, and cook for about 5 minutes, or until lightly colored. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender.

2. Add the peas and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes longer, or until they are tender. Add the lemon juice, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste, then stir in the chives and serve.

Lamb Shoulder with Preserved Lemon and Dates

Preserved lemons are a staple in North African cuisines. Cured with salt, they develop a distinctive pickled taste and soft texture that is quite unlike fresh lemons. You can buy them in gourmet stores or Middle Eastern groceries. The lemon’s acidity cuts the lamb’s richness, while the dates add sweetness—and the whole dish has a beautiful golden hue from the saffron. Fresh dates are found in specialty markets, and are generally available all year, with the peak season being November to March.

1 lamb shoulder, square cut or with the shank (see “The Front End,” page 92), about 4½ pounds (2 kg)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, diced

3 garlic cloves, finely diced

1½ teaspoons paprika

1½ teaspoons ground