Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [58]
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, sliced
4 green onions, trimmed and cut into 1 inch (2 cm) lengths
2 garlic cloves
4 dill sprigs plus
¼ cup (60 ml) chopped dill
2 strips lemon zest
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
8 small red potatoes
1 head Boston lettuce, coarsely shredded
1 cup (250 ml) fresh or frozen peas
1. Make sure the Iamb neck pieces are trimmed of all excess fat. If you can still see a band of sinew surrounding any of the pieces, make a few nicks in it to prevent the pieces from curling as they cook. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
2. Scatter the onion, green onions, garlic, dill sprigs, and lemon zest over the bottom of a Dutch oven or a heavy, deep frying pan with a lid. Lay the lamb on top and pour in the wine and 1 cup (250 ml) water. Bring to a boil and skim off the foam, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.
3. Turn the lamb pieces and cook gently for another 30 minutes, still partially covered. Transfer the lamb to a dish, strain the cooking liquid into a glass measuring cup or a bowl and set aside to allow the fat to rise to the top; add the strained vegetables and herbs to the lamb.
4. Rinse out the Dutch oven or frying pan. Slice the potatoes and layer them in the clean pot. Place the neck pieces and vegetables on top. Skim the fat from the cooking liquid, add ½ teaspoon salt, and pour over the lamb. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer, cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and the lid, and cook gently for 1 to ¼ hours, or until the lamb is tender and potatoes are almost cooked.
5. Add the lettuce, peas, and half of the chopped dill. Cover with the lid only and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the lettuce is wilted and the peas cooked; stir to mix the lettuce into the cooking liquid. Check the seasoning, sprinkle with the remaining dill, and serve.
NOTE: You can cook this dish in two stages. Stop after you strain the liquid, and refrigerate it (separately) and the lamb with the vegetables overnight. The next day, remove any fat and continue with the recipe.
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Lamb Neck Tips
Like ribs, lamb neck is a fatty cut and must be well trimmed. Lamb necks may be big or small, and the pieces vary in diameter. Ideally you need equal-sized pieces. I averaged about 6 pieces per neck but the z smallest pieces, which were mainly bone, I consigned to the stockpot, I needed 2 necks to serve 4. When my friend Miriam tested these recipes, her lamb necks were shorter and fatter than mine and so she served 1 piece of neck per person. Use your own judgment to determine how many pieces you will need, remembering the high bone to meat ratio.
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Lamb Neck with Anchovies
This recipe came from Uta Taylor, a friend’s mother who is Italian. She calls it agnello all’acciuga—it sounds so much better in Italian. Anchovies are often paired with lamb and they reveal one side of lamb’s split personality. It takes well to the milder spring flavors of dill and peas (see page 120) but it can handle the punch of anchovies and red wine vinegar. Lamb neck is suggested, but pieces of shank or shoulder chops will work. As the lamb cooks, the liquid concentrates and all the ingredients meld into a thick powerful sauce that coats the meat.
8 pieces trimmed lamb neck, 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, about 3 pounds (1.35 kg)
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (250 ml) Lamb Stock (page 95)
2 garlic cloves, sliced
6 anchovy fillets, rinsed
1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, chopped
½ cup (125 ml) red wine vinegar
½ cup (125 ml) dry red wine
1. Make sure the lamb neck pieces are trimmed of all excess fat. If you can still see a band of sinew surrounding any of the pieces, make a few nicks in it to prevent the pieces from curling as they cook.
2. Lightly coat the bottom of a large heavy frying pan with the olive oil and heat over medium-high heat. Season the lamb lightly with salt and generously with black pepper. Add the lamb to the