Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [59]
3. Add half of the stock to the pan and bring to a boil, deglazing the pan by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add the lamb neck, in a single layer if possible, and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes, turning the lamb once. Make sure there is always a little liquid covering the bottom of the pan.
4. While the lamb is cooking, put the garlic, anchovies, and rosemary in a food processor. Process until finely chopped, then add the wine and vinegar and process again.
5. After the lamb has simmered for 30 minutes, stir in the anchovy-vinegar mixture and bring back to a simmer. Cover tightly and braise for 1 to 1½ hours, or until the lamb is very tender. Turn the lamb pieces every 30 minutes, and make sure there is always liquid covering the bottom of the pan.
6. Transfer the lamb necks to a warmed platter and keep warm, loosely covered with aluminum foil. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the juices have reduced to about ¾ cup (175 ml) and are slightly thickened and glossy. Check the seasoning, and add salt if necessary. Pour the sauce over the lamb and serve.
BONE JEWELRY
In 2004, a discovery of beads in a cave at the southern tip of Africa revealed that man’s love of adornment is very old. These beads were made from shells and dated at over seventy-five thousand years old. Bone tools were found alongside them. We view jewelry as purely ornamental, but for early man it had many meanings. While its intrinsic beauty counted, jewelry could also be an amulet or worn to denote the social status of its wearer. Early jewelry was fashioned from objects at hand like shells, seeds, and, of course, bones.
Bones were a powerful symbol. For early man the power and strength of an animal resided in its bones. By wearing the bones of a certain animal, he could assume its characteristics: skill at hunting, for example, or strength or speed. Bones from horned animals were especially valued. The horn was a phallic symbol, and the bones of these animals naturally bestowed sexually potency on their wearers.
Beginning with simple pendants made from hollow bones strung on plant fibers, bones were carved, polished, and pierced to create intricate jewelry—sometimes ceasing to look like a bone. Bone is slightly softer to carve than gold, so it was an ideal medium for practicing the art of engraving. Many early jewelers and metal workers refined their skills on bones before embarking upon precious metals. More recently, the ban on ivory revived the interest in bone jewelry and it is enjoying a renaissance.
Bone has one more connection to jewelry. Bone ash is an ingredient in jewelry cleaning and polishing compounds.
Poultry
W hen it comes to bones, chickens have fared the worst. If modern science could breed a bird with only wing bones, it would be a success. Wings bones, it seems, are the only chicken bones anyone wants to bother with. Those familiar with the well-known cartoonist Gary Larson will remember his cartoon “Boneless Chicken Ranch” depicting a ranch populated with hapless chickens who have no bones. As they can’t stand, they lie in strangely contorted positions on the ground or draped over the fence. It’s a visual joke that makes us laugh but, increasingly, the birds we eat are being separated from their bones and as a result, they are losing their flavor.
Why should we bother with whole chickens and bone-in pieces? Boneless pieces cook faster, but those few minutes gained do not outweigh the loss of taste. The first step toward tastier poultry is to reacquaint it with its bones. Bones prevent the bird’s flesh from drying out, especially when cooking leaner breasts and small birds. More important, the bones add flavor.
The provenance of the poultry is also important. Birds fed a varied diet and allowed to exercise are the tastiest. These free-range