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The Extremities and Odds and Ends

Except for some game birds, the head, neck, and feet are generally removed from birds before they are sold. The skinless neck is usually inside the bird, along with a separate bag containing the giblets (the heart, liver, and gizzard). Don’t toss any of these away. The liver can be used in a filling for dumplings (see page 209). The gizzards can be prepared separately but, along with the neck, their most practical use is in the stockpot. Or, if the neck is large and meaty, add it to the pan when roasting the bird to improve the sauce. I used to throw the neck away after roasting, until my friend Caroline revealed that she happily gnaws at it—extracting every morsel of meat as a cook’s treat.

The two nuggets of juicy meat nestled against the bird’s backbone, close to the hip joint are called the “oysters.” The name comes from their shape, not their taste. Don’t forget them when carving the bird.

The tail end of the bird also has a quaint name—the parson’s or pope’s nose. Not a flattering term, it was used colloquially by both Catholics and Protestants. It’s this fatty morsel that holds the bird’s tail feathers in place. When roasted and crispy, it is a favorite, especially with chicken skin lovers.

Feet, mostly chicken, can be bought separately at Asian or farmers’ markets. Like chicken wings, only chewier, feet require advance preparation but they make a great snack for those who like gelatinous textures. Feet can also be added to the stockpot.

“I remember when I was a child, being taken to the celebrated Barnum’s Circus, which contained an exhibition of freaks and monstrosities, but the exhibit on the program which I most desired to see was one described as ‘The Boneless Wonder’ My parents judged that spectacle would be too revolting and demoralizing for my youthful eyes and I have waited 50 years to see the boneless wonder sitting on the Treasury Bench.”

—WINSTON CHURCHILL, Hansard.

January 28. 1931. referring to the prime minister of the day,

Ramsay Macdonald

Common Poultry Weights

Poussin—¾ to 1 pound (350 to 450 g)

Cornish game hen—1 to 1¼ pounds (450 to 570 g)

Chicken—3 to 7 pounds (1.35 to 3.15 kg)

Capon—6 to 9 pounds (3 to 4 kg)

Duck (duckling)—4 to 5 pounds (1.8 to 2.25 kg)

Goose—6 to 14 pounds (2.7 to 6.3 kg)

Turkey—10 to 25 pounds (4.5 to 11.25 kg)

Common Farm-Raised Game Bird Weights

Quail—6 to 8 ounces (170 to 225 g)

Squab—1¼ pounds (570 g)

Partridge—1 pound (450 g)

Guinea hen—2 to 3 pounds (900 g to 1.35 kg)

Pheasant—3 pounds (1.35 kg)

How to Cut Up a Bird

Depending on the size of the bird, you can cut it into 2, 4, 6, or as many as 8 pieces.

To cut a bird into halves, place the bird breast side up on a cutting board. Slice from the top of the wishbone down the length of the chicken through the skin and meat to the breastbone. Using a knife or poultry shears, cut through the breastbone to split it in half. Turn the bird over, then cut down along either side of the backbone to remove it.

To cut a bird into 4, 6, or 8 pieces, you follow the same general procedure. For 4 pieces, place the bird breast side up, pull one leg away from the body, and cut down through the skin. Using the tip of the knife, cut around the “oyster” of meat nestled in the backbone so that it remains attached to the thigh. Twist the leg firmly until the hip pops out of its socket, and cut between the ball and socket. Repeat with the other leg.

Next, cut from the top of the wishbone down the length of the chicken through the skin and meat to the breastbone. Using a knife or poultry shears, cut through the breastbone to split it in half. Now cut down the length of the chicken through the rib bones to remove the breast halves from the backbone. Cut the backbone, with ribs attached, into smaller pieces and reserve for the stockpot.

For 6 pieces, cut the leg pieces in half, then separating the thigh and the drumstick.

For 8 pieces,