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Poultry Cooking Temperatures

Use an instant-read thermometer, to determine if a bird is cooked: Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh without touching the bone.

Chicken 165°F(73°C)

Game birds 155°F (68°C) (juices will still be pink, not clear)

Duck 180°F(82°C)

Guinea hen 185°F(83°C)

Portion Size

As with most meat on the bone, about 12 ounces (350g) per person is a good amount. However, some birds, such as smaller turkeys, duck, and geese, have large carcasses, so there is a higher ration of bone to meat; duck and geese lose a lot of body weight in fat. So in these cases, 1 pound (450 g) per person is a better estimate.

Poultry Stock

This versatile stock can be used almost anywhere stock is required. Using just bones is fine, but many birds’ bones are hollow (which enables them to fly). To make up for this lack of marrow, meaty pieces like wings, backs, and necks are usually added to poultry stock. You can mix and match the bones of different birds. The finished stock is the building block for hundreds of soups. For some suggestions, see the note at the end of the recipe.

4½ pounds (2 kg) poultry bones and backs, cut into 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) pieces

2 medium carrots, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 onion, unpeeled, cut into wedges

2 leeks, trimmed and quartered lengthwise 6 flat-leaf parsley stems

3 garlic cloves

1 large thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

1 large strip of lemon zest

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

Kosher salt, optional

1. Rinse the bones and backs under cold running water, then place in a large stockpot, along with the carrots, celery, onion, leeks, parsley, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bones, about 12 cups (31), and bring slowly to a boil. As soon as the stock begins to boil, reduce the heat so that it simmers. Using a soup ladle, skim off any scum that has risen to the surface (rotate the bowl of the ladle on the surface of the stock to make ripples: these will carry the scum to the edges of the pot, and you can then use the ladle to lift it off). Add the lemon zest and peppercorns, and simmer uncovered for 5 hours, skimming from time to time.

2. Strain the stock through a sieve into a large bowl. Discard the debris left in the sieve, and cool the stock quickly by placing the bowl in a larger bowl or sink filled with ice water; stir occasionally as it cools. When you taste this stock, you will notice that something is missing—the salt. Once you add it, the flavor will sparkle. But it was deliberately left out so that you can reduce the stock if desired without any fear that it will become too salty. If you will not be reducing the stock (see page 132), add about 1 teaspoon salt.

3. Refrigerate the stock for 6 hours, or overnight, to allow the fat to rise to the top and the debris to sink to the bottom. Remove the fat before using (and discard the debris at the bottom of the bowl). Divide it into i-cup (250-ml) quantities and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Brown Poultry Stock

οRoasting the bones first results in a darker, fuller-flavored stock and is a particularly good technique to use with game bird or duck bones, as it will give a richer base for the sauce. Toss the bones with a little vegetable oil, then spread them in a single layer in a roasting pan and roast in a 425°F (220°C) oven until browned, about 40 minutes.

Transfer the bones to a stockpot. Discard the fat from the roasting pan, then pour about 2 cups (500 ml) water into the pan and bring to a boil. Deglaze the pan by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom, then add this liquid to the stockpot and continue as for regular poultry stock, adding only about 10 cups (2.51) more water.

Chicken Soup Ideas

ο Fresh egg noodles and chopped herbs

ο Spinach, lemon, and rice

ο Pureed avocado, buttermilk, and lime juice; serve cold

STOCK TIP The exact amount of stock will probably vary each time you make