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the sieve and allow it to drip slowly through the cloth. As you get closer to the bottom of the saucepan, you might notice that the clear consommé is being muddied by bits of egg white. Don’t worry, just add it to the sieve. Check the bowl with the egg white debris and pour any liquid that has escaped from it into the sieve. Allow all the liquid to drip slowly through the sieve; don’t be tempted to press on the egg whites, as that would cloud the consommé.

8.You will have about 5 cups (1.251) clear consommé in the bowl and a mess of congealed egg white to discard. Season the consommé with about ¼ teaspoon salt. Serve hot, or allow to cool, then chill and serve it cold. If serving hot, pour 1 tablespoon dry sherry into each bowl before ladling in the consommé. If you serve it cold, you will probably need to boost the seasoning, as cold dulls the flavor.

Garnishes for Beef (and Oxtail) Consommé

ο Consommé speaks for itself, but if you wish to add something, keep it simple so that the consommé isn’t overpowered by the garnish.

ο Julienned root vegetables, carrots, parsnips, and celeriac (celery root), blanched in salted water, can be added to the warmed soup bowls before ladling in the consommé. Thinly sliced celery and shredded green onions, lightly blanched, are also good. You can prepare all of these garnishes ahead of time and refrigerate until ready to serve.

ο For oxtail consommé, fill wonton wrappers with diced cooked oxtail and minced flat-leaf parsley (brush the edges with beaten egg white to seal). Cook these separately, by steaming them for 10 minutes, so they don’t cloud your crystal-clear soup.

ο Chopped fresh herbs such as chervil, chives, savory, or thyme are a good addition to hot or chilled consommé, about ‘A teaspoon per serving. A spoonful of peeled, seeded, and finely diced tomato is also good, especially with chilled consommé.

Veal Shoulder with Salsa Verde

Veal shoulder gently braised yields succulent meat. Cooking the meat in an aromatic liquid and a tightly covered pot ensures that it won’t dry out, and you end up with a rich sauce. The salsa verde, green sauce, both reinforces the fresh herb marinade used on the veal and adds some needed punch to the veal’s mild taste. Vary the mixture of herbs in the marinade and sauce as you like, but be sure to include lots of parsley. Arugula adds a peppery touch and counteracts the saltiness of the anchovies and capers.

Serve the sliced veal with a few spoonfuls of the cooking juices and the green sauce. It is also delicious cold. To serve cold, thickly slice the braised veal, layering the slices on a serving dish with a lip. Cool the braising liquid until it just starts to thicken, then pour it over the meat and refrigerate. The liquid will set into a light jelly. A perfect dish for a summer’s night. Serve with the salsa verde.

The veal needs a good twelve hours in the herb marinade, so begin this dish a day in advance.

1 bone-in veal shoulder roast, about 5 pounds (2.5 kg)

2 cups (500 ml) flat-leaf parsley leaves

¼ cup (60 ml) chopped chives

20 large basil leaves

10 sage leaves

2 tablespoons oregano leaves

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

¼ cup (60 ml) plus ⅓ cup (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter

1 onion, diced

1 small carrot, peeled and diced

3 garlic cloves, halved

1 cup (250 ml) White Veal Stock (page 13)

½ cup (125 ml) dry white vermouth

3 cups (750 ml) arugula, coarse stems trimmed

2 tablespoons capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed

6 cornichons, rinsed

4 anchovy fillets, rinsed

1 tablespoon chopped shallot

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1.Pat the veal dry and place in a dish. Place 1 cup (250 ml) of the parsley leaves, the chives, basil, sage, oregano, and thyme in a food processor and process until pureed. Add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, a pinch of kosher salt, and a few grindings of pepper, and blend well. Coat the veal all over with this mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.

2. One hour before cooking, remove the veal