Bones_ Recipes, History, and Lore - Jennifer McLagan [9]
3.In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook gently for 5 minutes. Season the veal well with salt and pepper and place on top of the vegetables, the large flat side down. After 3 minutes, turn the veal over so that the second large side sears; but does not brown. Add 2 of the garlic cloves, ½ cup (125 ml) of the stock, and all but 1 tablespoon of the vermouth and bring to a boil.
4.Remove from the heat and cover with a damp piece of parchment paper and then the lid. Braise in the oven for 1 hour.
5.Turn the veal over, cover again with the parchment paper and the lid and cook for another 1½ to 2 hours or until internal temperature of the veal registers 155°F (68°C) on an instant-read thermometer.
6.While the veal is cooking, make the sauce: Place the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) parsley leaves and garlic, the arugula, capers, cornichons, anchovies, shallot, and lemon juice in a food processor and process until well blended. With the motor running, add the remaining ⅓ cup (75 ml) olive oil. Spoon the sauce into a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cover by pressing plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the sauce to keep it green, and refrigerate. (The sauce can be made up to a day in advance.)
7.Transfer the cooked veal to a warmed platter and let it rest, loosely covered with aluminum foil, for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the salsa verde from the refrigerator. Strain the veal braising liquid into a large glass measuring cup or a bowl and let the fat rise to the top (set the pot aside).
8.Skim off the fat from the braising liquid and discard; you will be left with about 3 cups (750 ml) liquid. Stir ¼ cup (60 ml) of this liquid into the salsa verde and set aside. Pour the rest of the liquid back into the pot, add the remaining ½ cup (125 ml) stock, and bring to a boil. Boil for about 10 minutes, or until the liquid reduces to 2 cups (500 ml) and feels slightly sticky on the tongue. Add the remaining tablespoon of vermouth and check the seasoning.
9.Carve the meat from the bones in one or two pieces, then thickly slice the meat. Serve in shallow bowls with a ladle of reduced braising liquid spooned over the top, and pass the salsa verde.
* * *
Carving Veal Shoulder
Don’t expect to get perfect slices from this cut. The bone structure will vary depending on the section of shoulder you have. With the upper shoulder, the blade bone divides the roast in two sections, while in the lower section, the arm bone does the same. So what you will have is half-slices. First, cut away any rib neck bones. Then place the meat fat side up and slice down until you hit the bone. Cut along the bone to free each section.
* * *
Roasted Veal Chops with Madeira and Parsnips
Madeira is a Portuguese fortified wine from the island of the same name. For this recipe, choose a medium-dry one. It adds depth to the mild veal and enhances the natural sweetness of the parsnips.
A large frenched veal chop is an impressive piece of meat that cooks quickly. But veal chops are lean, so careful cooking is necessary to keep them from drying out. This combination method of searing them, then cooking them in the oven solves the problem. Veal chops are best cooked medium-rare to medium.
2 veal rib chops, 2 inches (5 cm) thick, frenched
4 medium parsnips, peeled and halved
Kosher salt
½ cup (125 ml) plus 2 tablespoons, medium-dry Madeira
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon sugar
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (125 ml) White Veal Stock (page 13)
1.One hour before cooking them, remove the chops from the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
2.Place the parsnips in a saucepan, cover with cold salted water, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 7 to 10 minutes. The parsnips should be barely tender. Drain and pat them dry.
3.Toss the parsnips with 2 tablespoons Madeira, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and the sugar, and arrange them rounded side