Bottega - Michael Chiarello [12]
In a blender, purée the herbs with the oil, pine nuts, garlic, salt, pepper, and ascorbic acid until well blended and somewhat smooth. Add the cheese and whir for a second or so to mix. Transfer the pesto to a bowl; taste and adjust the seasoning.
Press plastic wrap directly on top of the pesto to keep it from turning brown and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze it for up to 1 month.
CHEF’S NOTE: Toast pine nuts in a small dry skillet over low heat, shaking the pan frequently. Heat for just 1 to 2 minutes; as soon as you smell the fragrance of the pine nuts, slide the nuts out of the pan and onto a plate so they don’t burn.
Basil Oil
MAKES ABOUT 11/3 CUPS
Follow these same steps with any fresh leafy herb, such as parsley, cilantro, or tarragon, that’s abundant and at its peak. I first made this oil from basil in the ’90s when a farmer backed up to the restaurant, his truck bed brimming over with fresh basil. We were making so much pesto it was inevitable that someone would overlook a batch and leave it out overnight. Disgusted with the waste, I decided to try to salvage something from the basil leaves, and this oil was born.
This is a condiment oil, something to drizzle on at the last second; don’t try to cook with it because heat will destroy all those garden-fresh flavors.
4 cups firmly packed fresh basil leaves
2 cups olive oil (see Chef’s Note)
In a blender, purée the basil and olive oil until completely smooth. Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan. Bring the oil to a simmer over medium heat; when you see small bubbles, let it cook for 45 seconds, then pour it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Tap the sieve lightly to coax the oil through but don’t press on the solids with a spoon.
Let the oil cool for about 15 minutes, but strain it while it’s still warm, because warm oil passes through the filters faster. While the oil cools, layer three coffee filters inside each other in a large sieve or strainer and set the sieve securely over a heat-proof container. Ladling from the top, transfer the oil into the layered filters and let it drip through. When most of the oil has gone through, pick up the filters and use your fingers to squeeze out the remaining oil, taking care not to tear the paper.
Let the filtered oil stand for a few hours and then pour it slowly into a clean container, leaving any sediment or cloudy liquid behind. Kept in an airtight jar in a cool, dark place, this oil will hold its bright flavor for at least 1 month.
Smoky Paprika Oil
MAKES ABOUT 5½ CUPS
Oil infused with pimentón de la Vera, a special smoked Spanish paprika, has a full-bodied flavor and gorgeous color. When making this blend, don’t allow the oil to get too hot, or the spice will scorch, infusing the oil with a bitter flavor.
Try this same method with other spices such as cinnamon (for brushing a pie crust) or black pepper (to drizzle on steaks).
Most specialty grocers stock pimentón de la Vera, but if you have any trouble finding it, see Resources.
1 cup pimentón de la Vera (smoked Spanish paprika)
6 cups olive oil (see Chef’s Note)
In a blender, mix the paprika and olive oil until completely smooth. Pour the mixture into a stock-pot and cook over medium heat, watching carefully until the mixture begins to bubble not just on the perimeter of the pan but also in the center.
Immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 minute. If the oil gets too hot, the paprika will scorch, so keep the heat down. Do not stir the oil. Remove from the heat and let