Bottega - Michael Chiarello [13]
Layer three coffee filters inside each other in a large sieve or strainer set securely over a heat-proof container. It’s best to strain the oil through the filters while it’s still hot, because it’ll strain more quickly. Ladling from the top, transfer the oil about 1 cup at a time into the filters and let it drip through before ladling in another cup. (This is to speed up the filtration; if you pour in all the oil and spices, the spices will clog the filter and it will take a long time to drain.) Finally, when all the oil has dripped through, spoon the paprika from the pot and let it drip down all its oil, too. When most of the oil has gone through, pick up the filters and use your fingers to squeeze out the remaining oil, taking care not to tear the paper.
Kept in an airtight jar in a cool, dark place, this oil will hold its sultry, smoky flavor for at least 1 month.
Duck Prosciutto
MAKES ABOUT 1½ POUNDS DUCK PROSCIUTTO
There is nothing like creating your own prosciutto to make you feel like the master of your kitchen. Yes, this will cure in your refrigerator for 6 weeks, but for all that, it requires a surprisingly small amount of effort from the cook.
There may be patches of light or dark mold on the cheesecloth. Don’t worry about this. Just brush the prosciutto with grappa or any hard alcohol; this adds flavor while killing any mold on the surface of the duck.
Hudson Valley Moularde ducks are a cross between Muscovy and Peking and have the best breast meat for curing; you can buy these from D’Artagnan, or try Heritage Foods (see Resources).
As with prosciutto made from pork, this begs to be sliced very thinly. One way to get the thin slices is to take the whole finished duck prosciutto to your butcher and offer to trade a few slices if he or she agrees to slice it for you.
After the 42 days of curing, if this duck is wrapped in cheesecloth and hung in a cool, dry place, it will keep for about 5 weeks.
CURING SALT
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
3 juniper berries, finely chopped
Pinch of ground cloves
2 dried bay leaves
1 whole Hudson Valley Moularde duck breast
Grappa for brushing
FOR THE CURING SALT: In a large bowl, combine the salt, pepper, juniper berries, cloves, and bay leaves and mix them, crumbling the leaves with your hands. Set the mixture aside while you prepare the duck.
Remove the cartilage from between the duck breasts and cut the breasts in half to separate them. Lightly season the meat side of each half with the curing salt. Then press the two halves together in a sort of yin-yang formation, with the thick end of one breast against the thin tip of the other, with the two meat sides touching.
Using kitchen twine, tie the breasts together tightly. (See Chef’s Note, below, for directions on tying a butcher’s knot.) Line a roasting pan with cheesecloth and spoon in half of the remaining salt. Lay the tied duck breasts on top the salt and then press on the last of the curing salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 21 days, turning the duck on the salt bed every 3 days and rubbing the salt into the duck’s skin on each side. If the duck gives off any liquid, just use a paper towel to wipe it away. Every duck has a different moisture content, so this will be slightly different each time you make the prosciutto.
After the first 9 days, make up a new batch of curing salt and discard the used salt in the roasting pan. Twelve days later (when the 21 days are up), transfer the duck to a platter, discard the plastic wrap, and use a dampened paper towel to wipe the duck all the way around. Brush the duck with grappa and then roll it tightly inside a length of cheesecloth slightly longer than the duck. Tie the ends of the cloth together with a piece of kitchen twine or string at either end so the cheesecloth hugs the duck all the way around, and then trim off any extra cloth from the ends. Tie another length of twine to one end. Use this to hang the duck from a rung of a refrigerator rack toward