Bottega - Michael Chiarello [2]
Truly, for me, there is no pleasure in making something until I can do it without glancing at the recipe at all. If the first time you make gnocchi, it’s not as good as the gnocchi you had at Bottega—well, Bottega chef Nick Ritchie has been making gnocchi for years and years; he could make it with his eyes closed. You’ll need to have at least a few more dozen gnocchi-making sessions under your belt before your gnocchi can even begin to compare. But don’t let that discourage you. If you are determined to become good at making gnocchi, you can do it. Cooking is a craft, and with any craft it’s just a matter of having the interest and devoting the time.
In Italy, the word bottega means “artist’s workshop.” I think of Bottega as more of a workout space, a gymnasium. It’s where I get to flex my culinary muscles, to rediscover my own culinary path with a more mature outlook. I’m hoping the recipes in this book will inspire you to flex your culinary muscles, too.
COOKING AS EXTREME SPORT
Did you fall in love with the garganelli at Bottega, or maybe the Polenta “Under Glass?” Do you want to re-create the dish exactly the way it appeared on your table when you were here with us? You can. We’ve shown you how to make our brodetto, for example, with all the bells and whistles: the tomato confit, the saffron rouille, the fantastic Fisherman’s Sauce, perfect croutons. This book leads you step by step through every component of each recipe for those occasions when you want to pull out all the stops.
If you want to make a dish Bottega style, get your game on. You can forget about sipping Champagne while you lean against the counter and occasionally stir. Bottega-style cooking demands that you be involved; these recipes want your head and your heart in the game. Psychically, when I’m pulled into the moment when every burner is firing on high, I feel like I’m hovering over the stove and every thought outside of the cooking fades away. It’s demanding, it’s exhausting, it’s exhilarating. If this isn’t your style, read on.
COOKING AS A GOOD WAY TO SPEND A SATURDAY
We’ve also suggested some shortcuts and family-friendly ways to make our food when you don’t want to spend your whole weekend cooking five components but just want a great steak or a fantastic pasta on a Saturday night. My hope is that you will start simply, feel confident making a basic version of a dish, and eventually add on the bells and whistles to suit your own style. Even if you are new to the kitchen, you will find in this book recipes that are welcoming and simple. Someone who’s never cooked can learn to make a great risotto, and what a fine first dish to have in your back pocket.
The Pantry
My pantry at home is a smaller version of Bottega’s. Here’s a list of the basics that I have on hand, always.
Anchovies
I prefer salt-packed anchovies, because oil-packed anchovies aren’t always canned in the high-quality oil I’d use. Soak salt-packed anchovies for 30 minutes in cool water before using. Oil-packed anchovies don’t require soaking. Remove the bones by running your thumb down the length of each anchovy.
Beans
Seek out the more unusual heirloom varieties in farmers’ markets and from specialty providers such as Rancho Gordo (see Resources). Store all beans in airtight containers and date them. Don’t keep beans longer than one year. I don’t use canned beans often except for chickpeas, which hold up to canning and work well in soups, salads, and antipasti.
Bread and bread crumbs
I like country-style bread, which means loaves with a good sturdy crust and a dense, chewy interior. Buy breads that contain nothing but flour, water, yeast, and salt. When your bread grows stale, make bread crumbs by cutting the bread into cubes and then whirring them in your food processor to the coarseness you want. Freeze bread crumbs for up to 1 month.
Calabrian chile paste
I go crazy for this stuff, adding it to everything from pizza, pasta, and grilled bread to aioli nero and my mom’s pastina soup. It has a smoky flavor and a warm, rich