Bottega - Michael Chiarello [3]
Capers
I prefer salt-packed capers for the same reason I use salt-packed anchovies. Rinse salt-packed capers, then soak them in cold water for 30 minutes before using. Oil-packed capers don’t need to be soaked.
Cheese
I have Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is Italian Parmesan, in my house at all times. Whenever you see Parmesan cheese in this book, know that at Bottega we use only the real thing. Look at the rind of the cheese for the words Parmigiano-Reggiano to know you’re buying cheese with optimal flavor.
I grew up on pecorino cheese, so this has a prominent spot in my pantry. I use pecorino fulvi to cook with (as with the warm budini). I also keep fontina on hand, and robiola, which isn’t a well-known cheese but has become one of my favorites in recent years. Try it in Pasta “Bezza” with Robiola and Braised Asparagus Sauce.
Chocolate
Whether buying dark, milk, or white chocolate, buy a premium brand such as Scharffen Berger, Callebaut, Guittard, or Valrhona. (This goes for cocoa powder, too.) Keep chocolate well wrapped in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Flour
For regular baking needs, we use Giusto flour or King Arthur flour. You can buy Giusto flour and their fine-ground polenta online. For pasta making, I use doppio zero pasta flour imported from Italy. (Doppio zero, or “double zero,” refers to how finely the flour is ground; it’s almost as fine as talcum powder.) Look for Italian manufacturers such as Caputo. See Resources.
Herbs
I use homegrown herbs whenever I can. You can’t beat the flavor of leaves picked from the plant and put right into the pot. Even the urban cook can have a small windowsill garden with fresh thyme, rosemary, and basil. For bay leaves, we use true Mediterranean bay laurel leaves at Bottega. They put up well and make great gifts. Because most folks don’t have fresh bay, the recipes in this book use dried bay leaves.
Mushrooms
I always have dried porcini (Boletus edulis) in my pantry, and I make sure they’re from Italy. When soaked in warm water for 15 to 30 minutes, these give an earthy, woodsy flavor to dishes such as the Butternut Squash and Fontina Risotto with Squab Ragù. Soak them in water that feels comfortable to the touch; too-hot water can change their flavor. Store dried mushrooms in an airtight container for up to 1 year.
Mustard
I rely on French Dijon mustard to emulsify salad dressings while adding a pungent note. Mustard’s flavor can fade over time, so taste it to make sure it still has some punch before whisking any into dressings. I also use coarse-grain mustards for Frutta di Mostarda.
Nuts
Marcona almonds from Spain are a godsend. I cook with them and serve them warm in bowls alongside cocktails. Pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts, and pistachios all have a place in my pantry. I like to buy nuts raw and unsalted and then toast them myself. I find very good nuts at farmers’ markets.
Olive Oil (and Other Oils)
Taste olive oils every chance you get. Just as the flavor of wine varies from region to region and year to year, so does the flavor of olive oils.
I use three types of olive oil. My everyday extra-virgin olive oil is a relatively inexpensive Manzanillo oil blend from California. I buy this by the jug and pour it into smaller glass vessels with spout tops for easy pouring. I cook with this oil, even though some cooks prefer to save their extra-virgin olive oil.
I do save the pricier extra-virgin olive oils in my pantry for use as a condiment, drizzling it on steaks, white beans, or pasta, just before serving. For me, purchasing this kind of finito olive oil—the oil used for the final drizzle—is pure pleasure. I find finishing oils all over the world and enjoy sampling the array on my top pantry shelf.
A third type of olive oil, which used to be called “pure,” has a lighter, milder flavor. Throughout this book, in each recipe I’ve noted whether you should use extra-virgin olive