Bottega - Michael Chiarello [62]
Goat’s Milk–Braised Lamb Shanks with Carrot, Onion, and Eggplant Caponata
SERVES 6
Every Italian has a recipe for lamb shank, but this goat’s milk braise makes my version unique. Most lamb shanks come from the hind shank; we use the foreshank, because it’s smaller and more tender, and we cook it bone-in for a little more drama on the table.
The goat’s milk braise makes the meat silken, soft, and delicious. You can try this same goat’s milk braise with pot roast, veal, and other meats as well. This is a low-barometer recipe, great when the day is stormy and you’re happy to be indoors, parked next to a bowl of this lamb.
For me, local fresh goat milk is key. I would never make this with goat’s milk from a can. If you don’t have local fresh goat’s milk, use whole cow’s milk.
The goat’s milk will curdle as you make the braise, but it will come back together before you’re finished; don’t worry. You will have some extra sauce, but you’ll be glad to have it over pasta with leftover lamb and caponata the next day.
Wine Pairing: Brunello
6 lamb shanks
Sea salt, preferably gray salt, or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus ½ cup
4 to 6 garlic cloves, halved
2 cups thinly sliced sweet white onions
6 cups trimmed, cored, and thinly sliced fennel (about 4 fennel bulbs)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted (see Chef’s Note)
4 cups fresh goat’s milk or whole cow’s milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 bay leaf
Carrot, Onion, and Eggplant Caponata
Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley for sprinkling
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Remove any dangling silver skin from the lamb shanks but do not expose the meat; leave in place whatever natural cover there is. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and set aside.
Heat a Dutch oven at least 12 inches long over high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and heat until shimmering. Add half the lamb shanks, taking care not to crowd the meat. Brown the meat on all sides. Transfer the lamb to a plate, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and brown the remaining shanks on all sides. Transfer to the plate with the other shanks.
Discard the fat in the pan. (It will be too brown to use for the veggies.) Heat the pan over medium-high heat, add the ½ cup olive oil, and then add the garlic, onions, sliced fennel, and fennel seeds. Sauté until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.
Return the browned lamb to the pan and add the goat’s milk, cream, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cover, and transfer to the oven to braise for about 2 hours, or until the lamb is very tender.
Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Using tongs, carefully remove the lamb pieces from the braising liquid and set aside. Using an immersion blender or regular blender, emulsify the braising liquid. Taste and and adjust the seasoning.
Gently rewarm the sauce over medium-low heat in the same pan and add the lamb to it to reheat for 6 to 8 minutes. (Or, pour about 1/4 cup sauce over each lamb shank, cover with foil, and heat in a preheated 350°F oven for about 15 minutes.)
Place about ½ cup of the caponata to one side of a warmed plate. Top with portions of the lamb shank (it will be falling-off-the-bone tender), and finish with a sprinkling of parsley.
Online Commentary—and the Old-Fashioned Kind
I admit to scrolling through the online reviews on Yelp or ChowHound occasionally. On the one hand, I like knowing what kind of experience people have had at Bottega. On the other hand, much of this online discussion feels like a distraction. If I’m a craftsman trying to perfect my craft, reading the reviews on Yelp may take me off point.
As I glance through the comments on these sites, I look for patterns. If a few people talk about a server who isn’t attentive, I’ll investigate, but honestly, a letter always carries more weight than anything I read online. Recently, we had a couple celebrating a major wedding anniversary, which happened to be the same night that a Hollywood power couple was dining at Bottega. I was concerned that the anniversary