Bottega - Michael Chiarello [63]
A few days later, I received a beautiful letter thanking all of us (not just me) for making their anniversary dinner so memorable. The online world comes and goes, but if you write me a letter, you have my undivided attention.
Arrosto of Duroc Pork with Roasted Heirloom Apples
SERVES 10 TO 12
There’s an old farm phrase that I love: When something is extra-fancy it’s called “high cotton.” The topmost cotton bolls on the plant produce the finest cotton, woven into what you’d wear to church or a wedding. This dish is high cotton in flavor but low cotton in spirit, because the pork shoulder was traditionally an affordable cut of meat. (I think of this as a Brady Bunch classic—pork chops and applesauce—turned on its Italian ear.) You can make the apples up to three days in advance and keep them covered in the fridge.
At our house, this is an overnight dish, because I slide it into the oven just before I go to sleep and I only have to get out of bed once to remove the foil halfway through cooking. When you wake up in the morning, the house smells fantastic. Let the roast cool in its own juices, and serve as a lunch-hour supper or as a long-weekend or holiday brunch. You can also begin cooking at 6 A.M., so the roast comes out just in time for a late-night dinner.
This recipe calls for butterflying the pork, then seasoning and rolling it. Take advantage of your butcher’s expertise. Bring along this book and ask for help. This is a dish meant for real meat, not small portions on Styrofoam trays.
If you don’t want to deal with the steps involved in butterflying the meat, you can just season the pork shoulder and slide the whole piece of meat into a preheated 275°F oven, slow-cooking for 10 hours or until the meat falls apart at a touch.
It’s worth finding Duroc or Berkshire pork for this long-cooked dish. Visit Heritage Foods at www.heritagefoodsusa.com for more options than you might have in your local grocery store.
Wine Pairing: A fruit-forward Napa Valley Cabernet
ROASTED HEIRLOOM APPLES
12 Gravenstein or McIntosh apples
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
½ teaspoon finely ground sea salt, preferably gray salt, or kosher salt
1/3 cup honey
ZINFANDEL MOSTO COTTO
One 750-ml bottle red wine, preferably a fruity Zinfandel
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons high-quality red wine vinegar
1 cinnamon stick
Zest of 1 lemon
8-pound boneless pork butt or pork shoulder, butterflied
Sea salt, preferably gray salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons Toasted Spice Rub (recipe follows)
FOR THE APPLES: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Peel and core the apples, then cut into 1-inch wedges and toss them in a bowl with the lemon juice to keep them from oxidizing. Heat a medium, ovenproof sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat, add the butter, and cook until it begins to brown. Add the sage, apples, and ½ teaspoon salt and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the apple edges just begin to color. Add the honey, transfer the pan to the oven, and roast for about 20 minutes, or until the apples are soft and lightly browned. Mash with a fork for a chunky version or purée in a food processor for a smoother sauce. Set aside.
FOR THE MOSTO COTTO: Pour the wine into a medium saucepan. Add the sugar and 2 tablespoons of the vinegar. Reduce this to a syrup over medium-high heat; don’t let it stay at a rolling boil but try to keep it at a strong simmer. The bubbles will grow larger when the liquid reaches a syrupy consistency. At this point, add the cinnamon and lemon zest. Take the pan off the heat and let the mosto come to room temperature, 20 to 30 minutes. Add the remaining two tablespoons of vinegar and allow the mosto to cool. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer or a chinois. This keeps for up to 3 months refrigerated in an airtight container.
Preheat the oven to 275°F.