Carolinas, Georgia & South Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Alex Leviton [70]
START
Pilot Mountain, NC
END
Boonville, NC
ALSO GOOD FOR
* * *
Anyone who watched American television in the 1960s or has seen reruns of ’60s TV shows since will recognize much of Mayberry in Andy’s real-life hometown of Mt Airy. You can still get a pork sandwich at Snappy Lunch or visit Mt Pilot (nearby Pilot Mountain). You might even see a glimpse of Thelma Lou from the show: actress Betty Lynn retired here in 2006.
It’s rare in a travel writer’s life to find a place worthy of the word “perfect,” but such is Pilot Knob Inn, in the foothills of Pilot Mountain. The former tobacco barns-turned-guest cottages and luxurious suites cater to baby-making rather than babies (children are not allowed). Everyone can enjoy the romantic private lake, full Southern breakfast and dazzlingly cozy furnishings, but the best rooms or cabins offer two-person Jacuzzis or private hot tubs, wood-burning stoves, kitchenettes or secluded wooded decks (hint: go for cabin 1, 4 or 5). Head across the highway to Pilot Mountain State Park just before dusk. You can drive almost to the top, where trails lead through leafy oaks to vistas of the wineries below and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the west. If you’re looking to camp in the area, this is the place. Food nearby is scarce, but as long as there’s decent BBQ, who needs fancy? For six and change, try a plate of BBQ, beans (green and pinto) and hush puppies at Aunt Bea’s Barbecue in the town of Mt Pilot. For dessert, there’s an ice-cream counter.
The following morning, head into Mayberry…er, Mt Airy, stopping first at the Andy Griffith Playhouse. A statue of Andy and Opie (a young Ron Howard) stands on the front lawn as a testament to the man who put Mayberry on the map, literally. The playhouse is the home of the Surry Arts Council, with plays, live music, the Andy Griffith museum and, starting in 2009, the Chang and Eng Bunker museum. Make sure you make it to Snappy Lunch before 12:30pm for its famed pork sandwiches. Opened in 1923 and the only Mt Airy business mentioned by name on the Andy Griffith Show, the old-school diner is where Andy bought his 10 cent hot dog during school breaks and where locals still go to get their town gossip and cheeseburgers, now a buck eighty.
If you want a more upscale meal, try Old North State Winery and Scuppernong’s Restaurant, where pineapple quesadilla share the menu with meatball sandwiches and fried oysters. For oenophiles, the bar offers wine tasting flights - a half-dozen samples of dry, sweet or semi-sweet wines. The only wine-tasting facilities in downtown, the winery/brewery/restaurant combo is a great place to try the native muscadine grape in red and white varietals. In the evenings, you can catch a movie at Downtown Cinema Theater, but it’s on Saturday mornings when the place is brought to life. Old-time bluegrass radio station WPAQ 740 broadcasts its weekly live Merry-Go-Round each Saturday at 11am (arrive at 9am for the open jam session).
* * *
“Not many people realize that Mt Airy is not only the home of Andy Griffith, but where the original Siamese twins settled and raised their family. Every year, we (the descendants of Chang and Eng Bunker) all get together and have a reunion. They had 21 children, so there are a lot of us. People come in from all over the country.”
Tanya Jones, descendant of Eng Bunker, Mt Airy, NC
* * *
Before you visit the Yadkin River Valley vineyards, pick up the Visit NC Wine foldout map from any area welcome center, or order one online at www.visitncwine.com. The “Yapa Valley” now has more than 30 wineries, and Round Peak Vineyards is a great place to start. From Hwy 89W, take Round Peak Church Rd for 1.5 miles. The small 12-acre winery is unassuming as a tourist attraction, but notable for the production of exceptional French and Italian varietals. Take a deep breath in each glass to smell the spirit of the tobacco that once grew on this land. For a contrast, head to the most Napa of the Yapa wineries, the polished Shelton Vineyards and Harvest Grill Restaurant. Take Hwy 77S to exit