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Charcuterie_ The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing - Michael Ruhlman [110]

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the dough, will become the bottom of the pâté.

The bottom of the mold has been replaced and the mold flipped back over. The top of the pâté dough is given a final brushing of egg wash for color. (With a terrine this small, there is no need to make a steam hole; the forcemeat will cook before the dough can become soggy.)

A slice of the finished pâté en croûte: The pâté fills the interior of the crust (the fat has not broken out), the tenderloin is perfectly centered, and the pâté is loaded with colorful and flavorful random garnish.

Pâté Dough

81⁄2 ounces/235 grams bread flour

3⁄4 ounce/17 grams nonfat dry milk powder

1 1⁄2 teaspoons/11 grams kosher salt

3 ounces/84 grams unsalted butter, softened

1 large egg

5 tablespoons/75 milliliters whole milk

1 teaspoon/5 milliliters white or cider vinegar

1. Combine the flour, milk powder, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook, and mix to combine. Add the butter bit by bit.

2. Combine the milk and egg in a small bowl, then add the vinegar. Add to the flour mixture and mix until a stiff dough forms.

3. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, and up to 1 day before using.


Yield: 10 ounces/300 grams dough

Aspic

Aspic is nothing more than flavorful stock that’s been clarified and then set with gelatin—in other words, jelled consommé. For very rustic preparations, such as the English Pork Pie (page 217), you don’t even need to clarify it—though traditionally you wouldn’t use powdered gelatin either. But clarifying the aspic makes a visual impression worthy of the effort, especially if you add fresh thyme leaves to it or other chopped herbs as appropriate to the dish. And the work of clarifying stock is easy and satisfying.

Using powdered gelatin to make aspic: The two stages involved in working with powdered gelatin are blooming and melting. First, sprinkle the gelatin over 3 times its volume in water in a baking dish and allow it to “bloom”: the gelatin will absorb the water and turn translucent. Next, place the bloomed gelatin in a 350-degree-F./175-degree-C. oven for 5 minutes, or until it is melted. It’s now ready to be added to the liquid being gelled.

Half an ounce/14 grams (about 1 tablespoon) of powdered gelatin per 1 cup/250 milliliters liquid will give you a sliceable aspic. One teaspoon/4 grams per 1 cup/250 milliliters results in a more delicate gel.

Aspic for Meat Terrines

4 ounces/112 grams lean ground chicken or turkey

1⁄2 cup/70 grams finely chopped onion

1⁄4 cup/35 grams finely chopped carrot

1 Roma (plum) tomato, chopped

2 large egg whites

1 cup/250 milliliters dry Madeira

1 bay leaf

1 quart/1 liter rich chicken stock or White Veal Stock (page 268)

3 ounces/90 milliliters cold water

1 ounce/25 grams unflavored powdered gelatin (2 tablespoons)

1. In a large heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan, combine the meat, onion, carrot, tomato, egg whites, and Madeira and whisk to mix well. Add the stock and slowly bring to a simmer, stirring continuously, so the egg white doesn’t stick to the bottom and burn, until a raft forms. Once the raft forms, stop stirring and gently simmer the stock for 1 hour; do not allow to come to a boil.

2. Carefully strain the stock through a dampened coffee filter: It should be crystal clear. Let cool to room temperature.

3. Place the cold water in a dish, sprinkle the gelatin over, and allow it to absorb the water (bloom).

4. Heat half the clarified stock in a small saucepan and add the bloomed gelatin. Simmer briefly until it dissolves.

5. Remove from the heat, place a few tablespoons on a plate, and refrigerate to check the firmness. Once chilled, the aspic should be firm enough to cut but not so firm that it would bounce like a rubber ball.


Yield: 3 cups/750 milliliters

Gratin Pâtés

When used in reference to a pâté, the term gratin simply means that some or all of the meat has been browned in a hot pan before being chilled and ground, adding a rich roasted flavor.

VEAL TERRINE GRATIN

This is an elegant

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