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By Root 370 0

classical terrine, using veal, with pork shoulder and a little bit of bacon that have been seared. (Unlike the classic pâté grandmère and pâté de campagne, though, this one contains no liver.) The searing adds a depth of flavor, a more roasted flavor. Garlic, shallots, Madeira, and brandy, used in deglazing the pan used to sear the pork shoulder, also add sweetness and depth to the flavor. (If you happen to have some glace de viande—reduced meat stock—on hand, it can be added to the reduction for even more meaty taste.) Adding green pistachios and chopped black truffle results in an exciting visual appearance and texture.

Because the veal will be ground, buy an inexpensive cut, shoulder, leg, or any stewing veal. Serve this with the classic Cumberland Sauce (page 289).

5 ounces/140 grams boneless pork shoulder butt, diced

1 tablespoon/20 grams kosher salt

11⁄2 teaspoons/5 grams freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters vegetable oil

1 ounce/25 grams slab bacon, diced

1 tablespoon/18 grams minced garlic

1 tablespoon/18 grams minced shallots

1 cup/250 milliliters dry Madeira

2 tablespoons/30 milliliters brandy

10 ounces/280 grams boneless lean veal, diced

10 ounces/280 grams pork back fat, diced

2 slices white bread, crust removed

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters whole milk

1 large egg

1⁄2 teaspoon/3 grams pink salt (optional)

2 teaspoons/8 grams Pâté Spice (page 147)

OPTIONAL GARNISH (MIX AND MATCH TO TASTE)

11⁄2 cups diced smoked ham; pork confit or duck confit; mushrooms, raw or sautéed; chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley or chives

1. Freeze all your blades and bowls before gathering and measuring your ingredients (see Note below).

2. Season the pork shoulder with salt and pepper. Place a 10- to 12-inch sauté pan over high heat. Add the butter or oil. When it’s smoking hot, add the pork shoulder and bacon and sear on all sides (the better the sear, the better the flavor). Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel and place in the refrigerator to cool.

3. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan and sauté briefly just to soften, about 30 seconds, being careful not to brown them. Add the Madeira and brandy, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, to deglaze and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency, a few minutes. Transfer this reduction to a small bowl and chill in the refrigerator.

4. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F./150 degrees C.

5. Grind the veal, seared pork, and back fat through the fine die into a bowl set in ice. Transfer to the food processor bowl. Combine the bread and milk, then add to the processor, along with the chilled garlic-Madeira reduction, the egg, the salt, the pink salt, if using, and pâté spice, and pulse until smooth.

6. Transfer the meat mixture to a bowl. If using the optional garnish, set the bowl in ice, then fold in the garnish. Do a quenelle test to check the seasoning (keep the remaining mixture refrigerated while you do so) and adjust the seasoning as needed.

7. Moisten a terrine mold with water (to anchor the plastic wrap) and line with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang on the two long sides to fold over the top. Pack the forcemeat tightly into the mold, pressing it down to get rid of any air pockets. Fold the plastic wrap over the top, then cover the terrine with the lid or foil.

8. Place the terrine in a high-sided roasting pan and add enough hot water (very hot tap water, 150 to 160 degrees F./65 to 71 degrees C.) to come halfway up the sides of the mold. Put the roasting pan in the oven and bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the pâté registers 150 degrees F./65 degrees C. Remove the pâté from the oven, remove from the water bath, and set a weight of about 2 pounds/1 kilogram on top of it. Refrigerate overnight.

Yield: 24 slices; 12 appetizer servings

[ NOTE: See pages 204–212 for a detailed description of the general terrine method. ]

Mousseline Pâtés

Mousseline forcemeats use meat or fish, pureed with cream (fat) and egg whites